Skincare: anti-ageing ingredients

Get these anti-ageing ingredients on your side to help you battle skin ageing

Woman with glowing skin

When deciding on the anti-ageing products and treatments to go for, it is first important that you understand the skin’s ageing process. Wrinkles occur because as we age our skin stops producing collagen—a protein that keeps the skin taut and firm. Another key factor in skin ageing is the loss of moisture from the skin. So, the aim of any anti-ageing serum or cream should be to restore the lost collagen and moisture to your skin. Stores today are flooded with creams that claim to take years off your face overnight and make you glow like a young 20-year-old. To avoid using something that will not provide desired results, know what ingredients to look for in your creams.

Listed below are few important ingredients that I recommend to be an integral part of an anti-ageing cream.

Retinyl palmitate

Retinyl plamitate is produced from retinol, which is found in animal fats, fish liver oil and plants that contain beta-carotene. It is actually a vitamin A compound and is best known for its anti-wrinkle effect on skin. Hence, it is commonly termed as ‘the skin vitamin’. Besides fighting the onset of wrinkles, retinyl palmitate disperses pigment, causes regeneration of collagen and is an excellent exfoliating agent. It also has antioxidant and moisturising properties. Due to these beneficial effects, it is a widely used ingredient in skin care and cosmetic products.

Phytic acid

It is a natural plant antioxidant found primarily in bran, cereal seeds, and fruit seeds. It acts as a melanin formation blocker and hence is used as a skin-lighting agent in skin care products. Its antioxidant properties also help reverse effects of ageing.

Ascorbic acid

Ascorbic acid is a form of vitamin C. It is a powerful antioxidant that helps damaged skin to recover and protects it from future damage.

Allantoin

Extracted from roots and leaves of the comfrey plant, allantoin promotes healing. It offers soothing, moisturising and skin softening benefits as well, thus promoting skin renewal. All of this makes it an ideal component of any age-defying night repair cream.

Kojic acid

Besides freckles and melasma, there are many types of pigmentation problems that can be treated and kept under control with kojic acid, a berry extract. It helps by attacking the source of pigmentation by inhibiting the production of melanin [that causes dark patches].

Alpha-arbutin

This ingredient is sourced from the leaves of berry shrubs. It can also be obtained from most types of pears. It is faster, safer and more efficient than hydroquinone, kojic acid or beta arbutin. It blocks epidermal melanin production leading to skin lightening and also reduces the degree of skin tanning after sun exposure. Over time, it smoothes the skin’s appearance.

Glycerine

It is a humectant that helps keep the skin hydrated by attracting water to it. It is found in vegetable and animal lipids. It maintains the water balance in the cells, helping regulate the skin’s homeostasis. This moisturising effect gives the skin a supple appearance.

Glyceryl stearate

It is a wax-like chemical product manufactured from glycerine and stearic acid. It forms a barrier on the skin and limits the amount of moisture loss. Moreover, it offers protection from free radicals that accelerate ageing.

Azelaic acid

It is used to treat acne, but is also known to be effective in skin discolouration. It reduces the growth of the keratin surface skin cells that can
block pores, thereby helping skin rejuvenation.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide protects the skin against pollutants and other irritants—the external culprits in ageing. Research has proved that niacinamide can reverse some visible signs of ageing. These include wrinkles, visible pores, dark spots, uneven texture, redness, loss of moisture, lines and hyper-pigmentation.

Tocopheryl acetate

A form of vitamin E, this ingredient protects your skin against damage from UV radiation. It is also said to encourage cell regeneration, wound healing and improve skin’s surface.

That said, apart from topical creams and anti-ageing treatments, it is important to follow a healthy exercise and diet routine. Supplement your diet with the correct nutraceuticals. Lifestyle choices make all the difference when it comes to looking and feeling your best.

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Jamuna Pai
Jamuna Pai is a leading cosmetic physician based in Mumbai. A gifted doctor and a talented entrepreneur, she owns and runs her own clinic "Blush" in Mumbai and Pune.

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