Let us first understand UV rays

Solar radiation comprises UV rays, visible light and infrared rays. UV rays that reach the earth’s surface comprise UVA [320 – 400 nm] and UVB [290 – 320 nm] rays. Visible rays are at about 400 – 800 nm and infrared rays are anything above 800 nm. Wavelengths less than 320 nm are absorbed by the upper layers of the skin, namely the stratum corneum and the epidermis. Wavelengths greater than 320 nm enter the deeper part of the skin, the dermis. All rays cause the breakdown of cell membrane, lipids, structural proteins and DNA of the skin.

Exposure to UVA rays can cause suntan, wrinkles, pigmentation, sun spots and even skin cancer. UVB rays are responsible for sunburns and skin cancer. Visible rays and infrared rays are said to increase pigmentation [any dark patches on the skin]. To protect the skin from all these rays, we need to use a sunscreen every single day.

What are the ingredients to look for in a sunscreen?

Always look for sunscreens which say ‘broad spectrum, non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic’. Broad spectrum means they offer protection from both UVA and UVB rays. Non-comedogenic means they are less likely to cause whiteheads. Hypoallergenic means they are less likely to produce allergic reactions or rashes. Physical ingredients are zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide. These ingredients form the main constituents of mineral sunscreens.

Safe chemical ingredients are cinnamates such as octinoxate, octyl methoxy cinnamate; ecamsule such a mexoryl, benzophenones, avobenzone; anthranilates such as methyl anthranilate; and salicylates such as octisalate homosalate. For best results, opt for a sunscreen which has both physical and chemical sunscreen ingredients. Some of the newer ones even protect from infrared rays. So if you are cooking most of the time or exposed to harsh indoor lights, use the sunscreens which protect from visible light and infrared rays as well as from UVA and UVB rays. For regular use, one should opt for a sunscreen with SPF 30 and PA +++

The most common questions asked about sunscreens:

1. “My grandma never used sunscreen, yet her skin is flawless,’”said Kriti when I asked her to apply sunscreen every day

Kriti, our grandparents were living in a better environment. The air was less polluted and the ozone layer wasn’t as depleted as it is now.

2. Sunscreens are so sticky, I cannot use them

Not any more. The market is flooded with new easy-to-use sunscreens that are not greasy. Ask your dermatologist or refer to the table at the end of this chapter.

3. Sunscreens make my face look white

The older sunscreens made the skin look chalky and white. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, essential physical ingredients in a sunscreen, were responsible for this. Haven’t you seen cricketers paint their faces white? This is zinc oxide, the best barrier from sun rays. However, one can’t wear a white mask and go out on a regular basis. But now, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are broken into micronized nanoparticles and incorporated into sunscreens. So you get the benefits without the white look.

4. I break out when I use sunscreen

You are not using the appropriate sunscreen. Choose a gel-based sunscreen or a matte one with ecamsule. Oil or cream-based sunscreens can clog your pores, causing blackheads and whiteheads. Look for sunscreens which say ‘non-comedogenic’, ‘gel’, ‘oil-free’, ‘dry touch’, ‘for acne-prone skin’ or ‘matte finish’.

Matte finish sunscreens contain silicones that ensure the pores are not clogged. They also reduce oil secretion and stickiness. They are best suited for people with oily skin.

Water-resistant sunscreens are occlusive and may clog pores. Avoid using them. Do not wear sunscreen for long hours if you tend to break out. If you work indoors and have no exposure to rays, you may wash your face an hour after reaching your office.

5. My skin turns dark when I use sunscreen

All you have to do is change your sunscreen. Avoid ingredients such as avobenzone and titanium dioxide in your sunscreen. Sometimes you may be allergic to these ingredients. Using these could result in darker skin.

6. I don’t step out into the sun; I just sit in my car and reach office. Why should I use a sunscreen?

UVA rays penetrate the glass in automobiles. Laminated glass used on windows offers some UV protection. However, rear side windows are made of non-laminated glass and transmit a significant amount of UVA rays. For adequate UV protection, all your car windows should have dark, protective UV shields which are available as laminated or tinted glass or film. However, as per traffic regulations, these tinted glasses are no longer allowed unless you have special permission. So the bottom line is that even if you travel by car, your skin still needs sunscreen. Similarly, if you are working in chic glass buildings which do not have curtains, you are being exposed to UVA rays.

My friend Karishma loves to sit by her French windows on Sunday mornings and sip her coffee. She is indoors, yet she gets exposed to UV rays. So she does need a sunscreen, even at home. My aunt thinks she has zero sun exposure as she is a homemaker and does not step out of the house during the day. So she doesn’t use a sunscreen. What she doesn’t realize is that she is exposed to sun rays while making her trip to the balcony to water her plants, to the terrace to dry wet clothes and to the bus stop to wait for her kid’s school bus. The short walk from our car to the office door or a walk to the café next door during a break is enough to do the damage.

7. Aditi is an actor and feels that her make-up has enough SPF

Foundation make-up provides SPF 3 to 4, because of its pigment content, for up to four hours after application. BB creams offer up to 40 per cent of the sun protection claimed by them. It is always better to wear a sunscreen first and then layer on make-up that has SPF. There are tinted sunscreens and sunscreens with primers available. These allow the make up to blend well without making the skin appear patchy.

8. Ashfaq says he doesn’t like to use a sunscreen because his face becomes sweaty on applying a sunscreen

Sunscreens which have more chemical ingredients change UV rays into heat. This causes sweat. To avoid this problem, opt for sunscreens with more physical ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

9. Marissa recently had a fabulous holiday in the Alps where it was snowing heavily. Yet, she came back tanned

Snow reflects 80 per cent of the sun’s rays; sand reflects 25 per cent and 80 per cent of the UVA rays that pass through clouds. So you must apply a sunscreen even on a cloudy day or when it is snowing. Remember to apply your sunscreen on all the exposed parts of your body. Physical protection helps a lot when outdoors. Full length trousers, long skirts, full-sleeved shirts and kurtis provide protection from UV rays. If you tend to tan or pigment easily, it is advised that you wear such clothes. Clothes made from tightly woven fabric offer better sun protection than loose ones. Also, darker-coloured clothes offer better sun protection than lighter ones. Wide-brimmed hats, umbrellas and scarves can also be used when outdoors.

10. Rishabh says he leaves for work before 10am when the sun is not very bright. So he doesn’t apply a sunscreen

Well, Rishabh, you are only partly correct. UVB rays are most intense between 10am and 4pm. However, as long as you see daylight, UVA rays are present with a fairly constant intensity. So there is no such ‘safe time’ unless it is before sunrise or after sunset.

11. How will I get my vitamin D if I don’t step out in the sun?

This is a common question. Most people get more than enough vitamin D through regular, incidental sun exposure. And even if you always wear sunscreen, some UVB rays will still penetrate your skin, stimulating vitamin D production. Furthermore, after a limited amount of sun exposure, vitamin D production reaches its maximum and stops. UV exposure beyond this actually breaks down vitamin D. The US FDA recommends a balanced diet and a daily 600 IU vitamin D3 supplement, along with 1g calcium to obtain adequate vitamin D. A diet rich in vitamin D includes fortified milk, cereals, mushrooms, eggs, liver, cod liver oil and fish such as salmon, tuna and mackerel.

12. Rimi’s seven-year-old plays soccer and she feels he has turned two shades darker

This is the effect of UV rays. Sunscreen can be applied on children above the age of six months. It is advisable to plan indoor activities between 11am to 3pm. Avoid sun exposure during these hours because rays are the harshest at this time. It also helps to be fully clothed. Caps and hats should be worn. Preferably, use a physical sunscreen with SPF 15. Make sure to use a sunscreen before and after a swim or an outdoor sport.

The post A Skin Doctor Tells You How to Choose the Right Sunscreen appeared first on Complete Wellbeing.

Come winter and my skin becomes a problem. From chapped lips to cracked heels to body itches, I get them all. If I forget to moisturise my legs in the morning, I am sure to be embarrassed in the clinic because of the white streaks on my legs. This is excessive dry skin, which I have inherited from my father, and the winters dehydrate it even more. People who suffer from skin allergies, eczemas and certain skin disorders like atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, seborrhoeic dermatitis, should be aware that their skin problems will worsen in  winter. So they need to take a little extra care and follow a stringent and effective skin care regime for their skin to stay moist and healthy.

Knowing your skin

First, let’s understand how your skin reacts to winter. The skin that is visible to your eyes is actually made up of many layers. The upper layers comprises of dead cells, which have lipids, oils, lactic acid, urea and hyaluronic acid in them. These form the skin’s natural moisturisers, giving it a natural ‘skin barrier’ that helps keep our skin hydrated and supple. Due to the low humidity in winter, the lipid structure in the barrier layer of the skin tends to break up. This means water can’t be retained in the skin and this gives you dry, flaky skin.

Your natural superhero: your skin barrier and how to take care of it

All of us have a skin barrier—a protective shield that protects and nourishes the skin. A healthy skin barrier has fat molecules—cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides—in the right ratio to keep the skin healthy. Our skin barrier also has an ideal acidic level, or what we call pH level, of about 5.4. This ideal pH level kills unwanted bacteria and yeast.

In winter, the cold disrupts the pH level, as does the low humidity. A broken-down skin barrier allows irritants, allergens and bacteria to find their way into your skin, causing allergies and breaking down of the skin. Foaming cleansers, bubble baths and bar soaps are some of the other common culprits that strip the lipids from the skin.

Very alkaline face soaps and ingredients such as AHAs [highly acidic] and retinoids [Vitamin A derivates] if used in the wrong concentrations, can aggravate the damage to the skin barrier. Too much exfoliating and washing is another common cause—even if you have oily skin with pimples, washing your face twice a day is more than enough.

Opt for cleansers [cream cleansers if your skin is extra dry] that have stearic acid [a common fatty acid]—this will improve your skin barrier. Facial cleansing oils, touted as the latest thing in skin care, are actually a centuries-old tradition in Asia. You can also repair your skin barrier from the inside by using supplements such as borage seed or evening primrose oil. You must consult your dermatologist to know the adequate dosage.

Get a supple winter glow!

Winter’s magic mantra is: moisturise, moisturise and moisturise! Moisturising in winters is a must to replenish the moisture your skin loses to the harsh weather. Body oils work wonders for the skin as they protect the skin’s barriers and lock in moisture preventing it from escaping the skin’s surface.

Add a few drops of coconut or almond oil to your bath. This is an excellent moisturiser and works on your skin by keeping it moist and soft throughout the day. Natural oils are a necessary ingredient for the skin in winter and they help keep your skin supple.

Winter Dos

• While the thought of a long, hot bath on a cold winter day is very appealing, over-exposure to hot water can dry your skin out even more. So you’re better off having a bath with lukewarm water.
• Avoid having a shower for more than 10 minutes.
• Be careful about the soap you bathe with, as soaps can alter the pH of the skin and make it alkaline. This will cause dryness and flaking of the skin. Deodorant bars as well as antibacterial soaps make the skin drier. If your skin is sensitive, avoid soaps with fragrances. I would opt for clear shower gels as they maintain the pH balance of the skin as well as cleanse the skin well. If your skin is dry, opt for a non-foaming, gentle moisturising shower gel.
• After a bath, apply a moisturising lotion on your entire body, while the skin is slightly moist. Use a heavy moisturising cream for your hands, elbows, knees and feet. It wouldn’t be wrong to quote that “Your moisturiser should be your daily companion.”
• Sunscreen isn’t just for summer time. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen to your face, neck and your hands [if they’re exposed].
• Moisturise your lips in order to form a protective barrier between the cold air and your lips. Use a lip balm for your lips. Ghee or clarified butter works beautifully too. Do not lick your lips as this dries them further. Avoid matte lipsticks and opt for a lip gloss instead.
• Avoid toners and astringents in winter, especially if they are alcohol-based. They will further dry your skin.
• Avoid having room heaters on for long hours. These will make the skin drier by ripping moisture away.
• If you are developing cracks on your heels, you need to take care of your feet on a daily basis, instead of depending on once-in-a-while pedicures.
• Drink up to eight glasses of water daily to keep hydrated. You can also make use of natural fluids from juicy fruits for delicious drinks.
• Include flax seeds, almonds, walnuts, salmon and mackerel in your diet. These are rich in Omega-3 fatty acids and will help to keep the skin hydrated.

Skin care remedies from your kitchen

Here are some delicious remedies to soothe and nourish your skin. Home-made masks are a simple way to nourish your skin.

• Make a paste with yoghurt, ground almonds and coconut milk. Apply the mixture on your face and keep it on for 20 minutes. Wash it off with lukewarm water.
• You can also blend an avocado with a few drops of coconut oil and apply the mixture all over your body before a bath. Leave it on for 10 minutes and then wash it off. Your skin will feel fresh and good as new!

Your skin is a living, breathing thing and like you, it also has many moods. Knowing your skin is important and so is observing and understanding how your skin behaves with the changing seasons. I hope you’re now better prepared to take care of your skin the right way this winter!

The post Cold play: A guide to skin care during winters appeared first on Complete Wellbeing.

Cleaning

Cleansing your hands and feet twice a day is more than sufficient unless they have gotten dirty. Avoid being obsessive about washing your hands and feet throughout the day. Wash them only when needed. Avoid using harsh soaps, which can alter the pH of the skin and dehydrate it further.

Moisturing

Make sure you moisturise your hands and feet twice a day. In the morning, use a lighter moisturiser which has lactic acid, petrolatum, hyaluronic acid or vitamin E. At night, use a thicker moisturiser to form a soft coat on your skin. Look for ingredients like shea butter, cocoa butter, almond oil, olive oil, coconut oil , squalene, ceramides in your night moisturiser for hands and feet. Make sure you apply the moisturiser on a slightly damp skin.

Sun protection

You need to be particular about your use of sunscreen [a minimum of SPF 30] on your hands and feet, which usually face the brunt of unprotected sun exposure.

Care after cuts

If you have cuts in your palms or you find the skin peeling, avoid the use of soaps and detergents. Do not use hand sanitisers too often. Make sure you apply butter or cooking oil or even ghee on your hands before cutting sticky vegetables. Direct contact with flowers can also increase cuts and cracks. It is better to avoid handling flowers till your hands heal.

For cracked heels

To avoid cracks and rough soles, you can do an easy pedicure routine at home at least twice a week. Add a few drops of almond oil or coconut oil to warm water and soak your feet for about 10 minutes. Scrub the dead skin on the soles with a pumice stone or a mild loofah. You may also use crushed fruit pits or brown sugar to scrub. Apply a thick moisturising cream containing shea butter. If possible, wear cotton socks all the time. In case there are cuts, you may need to apply an antibacterial cream such as mupirocin along with the mosituriser. For deep cracks and cuts, it’s best to consult a dermatologist, who may prescribe a cortisone cream.

Corns and calluses

If you have hard calluses, use a cream with salicylic acid or urea to soften the skin and exfoliate. If you have corns, it is best to get them removed surgically. Use corn caps only if the corns have just appeared. Make sure you wear soft cushioned shoes in order to prevent recurrence.

Fungal infections of the feet

Also known as athlete’s foot, this condition is common in people who wear closed shoes throughout the day. Dark and damp conditions promote funguses that cause athlete’s foot. Keeping your feet clean and hygienic can help prevent fungal infections. Wash your feet frequently and dry them properly, especially between your toes. Always wear fresh socks or other hosiery. After a shower in the morning, dust a good amount of antifungal powder. Use an antifungal cream at bedtime. In severe cases of athlete’s foot, consult a dermatologist.

Nail care

Nail care is important to prevent brittle nails, fungal infections, and bacterial infections. Keep your nails clean and well trimmed. Moisturise your toenails with a cuticle cream, coconut oil or vitamin E oil. Gently rub it over the entire nail, including the cuticle. Make sure the cuticle is not touched during manicures and pedicures.

Always use an alcohol free nail polish remover. Avoid gel nails and artificial nails if you already have yellow nails or fungal infection of the nails.

In situations where your hands give away your age, skin booster injections made of hyaluronic acid are given into the skin of hands and feet to keep them nourished, hydrated, plumped and free of wrinkles. The other treatment is radiofrequency skin tightening.

The post Want youthful hands and feet? Follow these 8 tips appeared first on Complete Wellbeing.

10 Ways to Spoil Your Skin

1. Cleaning cuticles

The cuticle attaches the nail plate to the nail bed. Cutting or digging into the cuticle, [an inherent part of manicures], separates the nail bed from the nail plate. This makes it easy for dirt, bacteria, fungi or viral bodies to enter the nail bed leading to infections, swelling, in-growing and yellow nails. While getting a manicure, inform the therapist to not touch the cuticles.

Nail extensions are another popular rage among women. Long-term use and poorly fitted nails can damage the nail bed and hamper natural nail growth. Fungal and bacterial infections can also occur easily, especially when there is even a minor trauma to the artificial nail.

2. Getting frequent facials

Facials are more of a feel good than a skin care routine. The massage and exotic creams simply make you feel pampered without really helping your skin. A study in India concluded that nearly 80% of those who got facials done had acne breakouts.

Facials temporarily brighten your skin tone as the skin is thoroughly cleansed, but they have no long-term benefits beyond relaxation.

No amount of massage can stimulate collagen and tighten loose skin. On the contrary, the creams can spoil your skin by clogging pores and stimulating the sebaceous glands, leading to acne/pimples.

3. Exfoliating your face every day

The skin’s outermost layer protects us from dehydration and external dangers. It contains certain lipids that maintain a protective barrier. The layer also has a collection of water-soluble compounds known as natural moisturizing factors [NMF] that absorb water from the atmosphere, combine it with their own water content to keep the skin hydrated despite exposure to sun, pollution and harsh elements. The lipid layer surrounding the skin cells prevent loss of NMF and helps ‘lock’ moisture in the skin.

Exfoliating the skin more than once a week tends to spoil your skin by damaging its protective layer, making it sensitive and dry. This leads to flaking, increased susceptibility to rashes and redness as well as premature ageing in the form of fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation.

Daily scrubbing and exfoliation leads to:

• Patchy areas of dryness
• Loss of suppleness
• Dull dry texture
• Redness and itchiness
• Increased sensitivity
• Inflammatory acne and irritation
• Fine lines and wrinkles

4. Using loofah or nylon brush every day to remove dirt

In addition to damaging the barrier layer of the skin, scrubbing evokes an inflammatory response of the upper skin layer. This can spoil your skin by releasing substances that alter the activity of immune cells and pigment-producing cells. Your skin then produces more melanin [skin color pigment], and you get a pigmented skin. Pigmentation takes a few months to treat.

If the scrubbing is frequent, the pigment melanin gets deposited in the deeper layers of the skin, worsening the problem, which then becomes difficult to treat.

5. Cleansing, toning and moisturizing

Strong toners are astringents with alcohol in them. Even mild ones, that are supposedly ‘alcohol free’ contain up to 10 per cent alcohol. While cleansing alters the skin pH, toning makes it more alkaline leading to dry and sensitive skin. Hence, a toner should only be used to de-grease very oily skin. If you have normal to dry skin, you should avoid using toners, unless you want to spoil your skin. Just stick to gentle cleansing and moisturizing.

6. Using natural products on the skin without proper knowledge

This becomes a harmful habit if done without any knowledge or consulting a qualified expert. Remember, not everything natural is safe—the common practice of rubbing garlic on acne, for instance, leads to burns and pigmentation of skin. Rubbing the skin with lime to remove a skin tag or a tattoo can burn the skin or cause irritant dermatitis. Massaging the skin with milk cream can block pores and cause white heads if the skin is oily or acne-prone.

7. Ignoring lip care

Lips are also part of the skin and need sun protection too. Women can use opaque lipsticks with SPF—they protect lips better than sheer glossy ones. They can also top up a non-glossy lipstick with a glossy one. Men can try transparent lip balm with an SPF.

8. Frequently licking lips

Saliva evaporates and dehydrates the lips further, making them drier. Saliva contains acids that help break down food, which irritate dry, chapped lips.

A variation of the habit of licking lips is scrubbing, peeling or biting off skin flakes. Peeling lips makes them bleed, slows the healing process and irritates the skin further. Sometimes, it even causes bacterial or fungal infection.

In those with history of cold sores, chapped lips also expose nerve endings, where the herpes virus lives. This exposure can stimulate the otherwise dormant virus and lead to active herpes infection of the lips.

9. Ironing hair

Many women or even men with long hair frequently use a flat iron to straighten hair to make them more manageable. Anything that heats hair or puts tension on the shaft, leads to breakage and can permanently damage cells that foster hair growth, if used recurrently.

Hair relaxers used for hair straightening contain lye, sodium hydroxide, and other alkaline products. Lye can cause burns and irritation to the skin and these processes can risk hair breakage and hair loss.

Brazilian blow out treatments are considered as easy solutions for frizzy hair. However, they make hair brittle, causing hair fall. The Brazilian straighteners contain 8 – 10 per cent formaldehyde. Exposure to formaldehyde causes general malaise, runny nose, sore throat, headache, itching, and irritated eyes. It is also a potential carcinogen when used in high concentration and quantities. Hence, make sure that the products used on your hair are approved by Occupational Safety and Health Administration [OSHA].

10. Skipping sunscreen

Up to 80 per cent of the sun’s UV rays penetrate the clouds to reach us. So, using sunscreen every day is not an option irrespective of where you live and where you are.

Also, another sunscreen-related mistake that we make is to not use it if the make-up has a sun protecting factor. To get adequate sun protection from such make-up, we will need to apply 5 – 10 times the normal coat. So, sunscreen is a must even with make-up.

Even if you will be spending the better part of the day in your car, remember that UVA rays, which are responsible for sun tan, blemishes, fine lines and wrinkles easily penetrate the glass.

This was first published in the August 2012 issue of Complete Wellbeing

The post 10 Ways to Spoil Your Skin, as per a Skin Doctor appeared first on Complete Wellbeing.

Hence, it is important to keep our skin well-moisturised, as it performs many vital functions. The skin acts as a mechanical barrier to infections. It prevents micro-organisms and other substances from entering the body, prevents excessive water loss and regulates body temperature.

A moisturiser is an agent designed to make the topmost layer of the skin [stratum corneum] softer and more pliant by increasing its hydration. Moisturisers prevent and treat dry skin, protect sensitive skin, improve skin tone and texture.

On the most basic level, moisturisers hold water in the outermost layer of skin. They also act as a temporary barrier. Many moisturisers contain combination of humectants and emollients, as well as other ingredients. A large number of preparations are available, many of which are marketed as cosmetic and therapeutic moisturisers.

What do moisturisers contain?

Humectants [glycerine, urea, alpha hydroxy acids]: These absorb water from the air and hold moisture in the skin. Humectants act better at high humidity levels and are also useful in softening thickened or scaly skin.

Emollients [lanolin, mineral oil, petrolatum]: These ingredients fill spaces between the cells in the skin, helping replace lipids and thus smoothing and lubricating rough skin. Emollients are either oil- or water-based. Oil-based creams leave a slight residue on the skin and have more staying power than water-based creams. Water-based creams are easier to apply and don’t leave much of a residue and hence are meant for oily skin.

Fragrances: Most moisturisers include fragrances which give the product a pleasing odour and cover up the smell of other ingredients. However, one must understand that fragrances in skin care products are the most likely cause of skin irritations or contact allergies.

Preservatives: Any product that includes water and oil must contain one or more preservatives to help prevent bacterial contamination after the product is opened. Most products contain multiple preservatives. These ingredients can sometimes cause skin allergies or reactions.

Moisturisers may include other ingredients as well, such as minerals, plant extracts, sunscreens, antioxidants such as alpha lipoid acid, coenzyme Q10, grape seed extract, and vitamins A, C, E.

How to select the right moisturiser?

Skin type, age and whether you have specific conditions such as eczema, acne are some factors that go into selecting a moisturiser that’s best for you.

Normal skin. Select a water-based moisturiser that has a light, non-greasy feel to maintain natural moisture balance of your skin. This is because normal skin is neither too dry nor too oily. These moisturisers often contain oils such as cetyl alcohol, or silicone-derived ingredients.

Dry skin. Choose a heavy, oil-based moisturiser that contains urea or propylene glycol chemicals to keep your skin moist. For dry and cracked skin, oils are preferable. They have more staying power and are more effective in conserving moisture content of your skin.

Oily skin. Use a water-based product that is labelled ‘non-comedogenic’ [which means it won’t clog pores], as oily skin is prone to acne and breakouts. Even though it is oily, such skin still needs moisture, especially after use of creams.

Sensitive skin. Opt for a moisturiser that doesn’t contain allergens such as fragrances or dyes and is specifically designed for sensitive skin. This is because sensitive skin is more susceptible to skin irritations, redness, itching or rashes.

Mature skin. Prefer an oil-based moisturiser that contains petrolatum as the base, along with lactic acid or alpha hydroxy acids to keep your skin hydrated. As you age, the oil-producing glands become less active, which makes your skin dry. These ingredients help retain moisture and prevent flaky skin.

The correct way to use a moisturiser

• Choose a moisturiser according to your skin type.
• Apply moisturisers immediately after bathing. Pat your skin, wipe it dry, then apply the moisturiser immediately to help trap water in the surface cells.
• Make it a habit to moisturise your hands and feet as well. Although often ignored, your hands are more exposed to the elements, especially soaps and chemicals, than is any other part of your body.
• Don’t use heavy creams on your face unless you have excessive dryness. You can use heavy, oil-based creams on your legs, hands and feet because those areas tend to be drier than the face.
• If you have dry skin, moisturise at least twice a day, whereas those with oily or normal skin should moisturise once a day.

This was first published in the January 2010 issue of Complete Wellbeing.

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As compared to women, men have a different pattern of hair growth, fat distribution, and rate of sweat and sebum production.

Men secrete more sebum [oil], which makes their skin more prone to acne. Men also sweat more than women, and since their body hair is dense, the sweat takes longer to dry, increasing their chances of bacterial and fungal infections. Lastly, their skin has a slightly more acidic pH, making it sensitive.

Shaving solutions

Shaving strips the skin of its hydrolytic film causing irritation and infection. Shaving can also cause bacterial infection of the hair follicles leading to folliculitis, commonly known as ‘Barber’s rash’.

This infection is caused by bacteria [Staphylococcus aureus] that live in the nasal passages. They get passed on to the skin of the cheeks while shaving. Barber’s rash is characterised by itching, redness, and small pus-filled blisters on the skin.

Another skin problem associated with shaving is ‘razor bumps’ [pseudofolliculitis barbae]. This happens when the hair curls back into the skin causing inflammation, redness and infections. To avoid having razor bumps, shave in the direction of hair.

To prevent the harsh effects of shaving, use good quality razors. Your shaving cream and after-shave should have moisturising properties.

Your after-shave should also be alcohol-free, as alcohol is harsh on the skin and causes dryness. Also, avoid fragrance-based after-shave products as they irritate the skin and lead to allergies.

Arresting ageing

In both men and women, skin health is largely controlled by hormones. The male skin tone and texture is ruled by testosterone and that of a female’s by oestrogen.

Male skin is thicker than that of a female, which gives them the rugged look. It also has more elastin and collagen that delays the appearance of freckles, fine lines, skin sagging and wrinkles.

To delay signs of ageing, for those between 15 – 30 years of age, using a moisturiser at bedtime is enough. For those above 30 years of age, a fragrance-free anti-ageing cream containing peptides, retinol, ferulic acid, kinetin, AHAs [alpha hydroxy acids], or polyhydroxy acids may be used at night.

Exercise is helpful as it promotes blood flow to the skin and prevents premature ageing. It also increases oxygen saturation in the tissues that keeps the skin looking healthy and youthful.

Ensure that your daily diet consists of green vegetables, brightly-coloured fruits and vitamins such as C and E. Avoid drinking excess alcohol, smoking and stress.

All of these factors can lead to premature ageing by exposing your skin to harsh chemicals and increasing free radicals.

While you do all of this, don’t ensure that you get enough sleep; it is crucial for a healthy, supple skin.

Cleansing

Since men’s skin is about 20 % oilier than that of women, they need to clean the face at least twice a day to get rid of the dirt, grime and environmental pollutants that can clog pores and increase blackheads and whiteheads.

Men with predominantly oily skin should use a salicylic acid-based face wash. Those with dry skin should use a soap-free cleansing lotion.

Avoid using scrubs that contain rough elements such as ground bits of nut or seed extracts because of their harsh effect on the skin. A mild scrub with aloe vera or jojoba will slough off dead skin cells gently and help in deep cleansing. Use a scrub just thrice a week and not every day.

Sun protection

Adequate sun protection keeps you looking young and fresh and prevents signs of ageing such as pigment spots, fine lines, and wrinkles.

Men with excessive oily skin should use a toner, followed by a moisturiser and sunscreen with an SPF of 30.

Those who spend long hours in the sun, should reapply the sunscreen every 2 – 3 hours. Wearing full sleeve, breathable garments and wide sunglasses is also a vital part of a man’s skin care routine.

Sweat control

Using a deodorant or an antiperspirant is a must as it prevents bacterial and fungal infections. Those who sweat excessively can use antifungal dusting powders to prevent fungal infections and smelly underarms and feet.

Do not rub your face to wipe sweat; use a tissue or cotton napkin instead and dab lightly. Frequent rubbing causes pigmentation, commonly seen as a dark band on the forehead in men.

Hair care

• Wash your hair as often as required or at least thrice a week to keep it clean and free from dandruff and infections of the hair follicle. It is a myth that shampooing increases hair loss. Use a conditioner without fail if your hair is dry. A herbal rinse is better for those with oily hair.
• A lot of men have hair on their ears and it generally runs in families. Keep it clipped. You can even consider permanent laser-assisted hair removal.
• Comb your hair with a wide-bristle comb to avoid hair breakage.
• ?Invest in good quality styling products that are suitable for your hair type. They may be a bit expensive, but you only need to use them sparingly. Too much of these products may make the hair frizzy or brittle.
• If you keep your hair short, you won’t need any styling products as the oil from your scalp will be sufficient to style and hydrate your hair.
• Keep your hair neatly trimmed to look presentable.
• To prevent tiny boils from erupting on your scalp, massage your scalp with your fingertips [not with your fingernails].
• Finally, stay stress free and have a high-protein diet, as it promotes healthy hair.

The post Men’s skin care: More than just shaving appeared first on Complete Wellbeing.

Negative emotions are detrimental to our skin in many ways. For instance, when we bite our nails and pick at them, we are anxious, worried or scared and we damage our nails. When in distress, some people even rub their fingers over their thumb nail, which creates a ridge across the nail. Doing this can even distort the nail plate. When the nail grows, a raised ridge forms in the middle of the nail. Brittle, peeling nails are a common side-effect of anxiety.

In some people, stress can cause excessive perspiration. Depressed or worried people tend to neglect their skin. They often lack the energy and motivation to adhere to their skin care regimen, which itself can exacerbate problems.

Under stress, an individual succumbs to overeating, drinking and smoking, all of which affect he skin, causing dryness, a sallow complexion and blemishes.

Negative emotions can lead to stress and vice versa. A hectic work schedule, the environment, a poor diet, lack of exercise, inadequate sleep, illness, over exertion or mental tension are all causes of stress. Stress causes the formation of the ‘stress hormones’ adrenaline, cortisol and DHEA. These induce a series of changes in the skin causing a lot of skin problems.

1. Increases sebum [oil] production leading to clogged pores, white heads, and black heads.
2. Impairs ability of the skin to heal and renew, making it more susceptible to infections. It also affects our immune function.
3. Increases release of inflammatory neuropeptides, making the skin sensitive. This could lead to itching, redness and hives. Release of neuro-peptides [or stress chemicals released from the nerve endings] can be brought down with the help of stress management techniques, according to dermatologist and clinical psychologist Richard G Fried. As a result, skin looks and functions better.
4. Exacerbates existing skin problems such as acne, psoriasis, eczemas, rosacea and seborrhoeic dermatitis.
5. Affects hair. Under stress, hair can go into the telogen [fall-out] phase. Telogen effluvium is a common hair loss problem that can occur up to three months after a stressful event.
6. Causes inadequate sleep, baggy eyes and dark circles.
7. Impairs lipid barrier function especially in adults, causing the skin to become dry and dehydrated. Dry dehydrated skin will allow more irritants, allergens and infectious agents to penetrate the skin and cause problems.
8. Accelerates the ageing process. The stress response upsets your body’s natural balance, which causes damage to hormone secretion, cell repair and collagen production. This leads to fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation.

Solution

Although it’s impossible to remove all the stress from your life, there are techniques to help you cope with stress more effectively.

• Follow your skin care routine. Do not neglect your skin even if you are feeling down.
• Pay attention to your diet. Avoid excessive levels of sugar, caffeine, junk food, smoking and alcohol.
• Practise relaxation techniques such as deep-breathing exercises, meditation or yoga to calm your mind.
• Pamper yourself with a massage or a spa treatment to lift your mood.
• Take up a hobby. It will take your mind off worries and help you relax.

The post Skin and your emotions appeared first on Complete Wellbeing.

What is it?

Acne is a chronic inflammatory disorder of the pilo-sebaceous unit, which affects face, chest, back, upper arms, shoulders and ears. It runs a self-limiting course and occurs more frequently in males owing to the androgen activity. In females, a premenstrual exacerbation occurs probably due to a rise in the progesterone levels. Predisposition to acne may sometimes be genetic.

Acne formation

Our skin has minute glands called sebaceous glands, which open into the hair follicle and secrete an oily substance called sebum. When the male sex hormones—present in both males and females—are on the rise, they activate the glands to increase in size, which in turn, leads to increase in the secretion of sebum.

Secondly, the cells stick together, plugging the opening of the hair follicle, resulting in ‘white heads’. When the pigment melanin, present in white heads, is exposed to air it forms black heads. Acne is also formed when there is an increase in the level of ‘propionibacterium acne’ bacterium. When the follicle gets clogged, its wall ruptures. This leads to formation of severe acne.

The culprits

Factors affecting acne:

• Hormonal imbalance.
• Genetic predisposition.
• Use of cosmetics such as creams, oil-based moisturisers, foundations.
• Application of heavy oil or gel on the scalp leads to pimples on the back and forehead.
• Working in chemical or oil industries and coming in contact with hydrocarbons, heavy oils, cutting oil, wax, grease and coal tar derivatives.
• Working in hot and humid climate.
• Drugs such as oral contraceptives, steroids, anti-tuberculosis.
• Squeezing or picking at a pre-existing lesion will lead to secondary infection, increased pigmentation and scarring.
• Stress.

Topically speaking

The medical line of treatment for acne comprises topical and systemic therapy. Surgery used as an adjunct gives better results. Persistent acne associated with hirsutism [excessive and increased hair growth] or alopecia [loss of hair] calls for hormonal evaluation to rule out endocrine disorders.

• Blackheads can be treated with topical creams that contain adapalene or benzoyl peroxide.
• In case of blackheads, whiteheads and pustules, a cream or gel that contains clarithromycin works best when applied once or twice a day. It can also be combined with adapalene to prevent pigmentation and scars.
• Antibiotic creams like erythromycin or clindamycin are also used. Peeling agents like tretinoin, alpha-hydroxy acids, salicylic acid, resorcinol may also be used. Comedone [acne blemish] extraction [clean ups] done fortnightly by a trained professional leads to faster resolution of lesions.
• In case of pustules and whiteheads, one needs to take systemic antibiotics for at least 6 – 8 weeks. It is contraindicated in pregnancy and lactation.
• For severe acne, topical creams and systemic antibiotics show good results when taken for 8 – 12 weeks.

Daily soaps for acne

For acne-prone skin, cleansers are available in the form of soaps, face and foam washes. They remove unwanted dirt, contaminants, and bacteria, and also eliminate dead surface cells, endogenous sebum and sweat. In doing so, these products generally make it easier for topical acne creams to be absorbed. When opting for an acne cleanser, look for the terms ‘oil-free’, ‘non-irritating’ and ‘non-comedogenic’ [non-pimple aggravating]. You must wash your face only twice a day and be kind to your skin while washing as excess washing can cause irritation.

Salicylic acid-based face wash or foams: Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid derived from willow bark. It is as an antiseptic and antifungal agent. Since it is lipid soluble, it has the ability to penetrate into the pore, clean it and slough off the dead cells, making it effective for reducing blackheads and whiteheads. They are recommended for those acne-prone with oily skin.

Tip: Do not use it if you are undergoing chemical peels treatment.

Benzoyl peroxide-based face wash: Benzoyl peroxide kills pimple-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation. It also dries out skin by reducing the oil on your skin’s surface. So sometimes, it may cause flaking, irritation and redness. It is recommended for extremely oily skin and severe acne.

Tip: Do not use if your skin is dry or sensitive.

Soaps containing sulphur: Sulphur keeps bacteria in check and works wonders on whiteheads, blackheads and pimples. It is milder than face washes containing benzoyl peroxide. These are recommended for oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads.

Tip: Do not use in winter and if the skin is flaking.

Soaps containing triclosan: These have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Tea tree oil containing face washes: These act as natural anti-bacterial agents. They are soothing and leave a moisturising film on the skin. They are recommended for sensitive acne-prone skin.

Cetyl alcohol-based cleansing lotions: Many a times, anti-acne drugs or creams cause dryness of the skin. In such cases, it is advised to avoid the use of anti-acne soaps and face washes as they could rip off the skin’s barrier layer. Cetyl alcohol cleansing lotions come handy in such cases, as they do not strip the skin of natural protective oils or emollients or disturb the skin’s natural pH balance. Recommended for those with extremely sensitive skin.

Ugly reminders

If acne is not treated on time, you develop scars, which is what causes the psychological trauma. Acne scars may be in the form of:

• Macules. These are small dark skin discolorations and are flat.
• Depressed fibrotic scar and ice-pick scars. These are large, depressed valleys on the surface of the skin. They are usually jagged.
• Soft scars. These are gentle, scar-like depressions, usually small, and either circular or linear.
• Raised scars called hypertrophic scars.

These scars can be healed with treatments like microdermabrasion, chemical peels, dermaroller, and other surgical methods. However, consult your dermatologist before undergoing any treatment.

Proper care, treatment and hygiene go a long way in managing and even eradicating acne.

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Extrinsic ageing primarily occurs due to ultraviolet [UV] rays. As most of us are exposed to sun, the ‘damage’ to the dermis can be seen through the dry epidermis as we age. ‘Photoaging’ is the term dermatologists use to describe this type of ageing caused by exposure to the sun’s rays and occurs over a period of time. With repeated exposure to the sun, our skin loses its ability to repair itself, and the damage accumulates. Scientific studies have shown that repeated UV exposure breaks down collagen and impairs the synthesis of new collagen. Other causes of skin fatigue are chemical pollutants, poor nutrition, starvation, diets, physical and mental stress, smoking, alcohol, inadequate sleep and lack of exercise.

Skin and nutrients

Skin is one of the most powerful indicators of health. The rate at which our skin changes also depends on what we inherit, how we treat it and how we look after it. Wrinkles, dry or oily skin, acne, and inflammation all are signs of poor health, often brought on by consuming unhealthy foods and avoiding skin-healthy nutrients.

Vitamins and minerals are necessary for healthy skin. Vitamin A to prevent dry and flaky skin, vitamin C for collagen and vitamin E to re-hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation and speed up the healing process.

• Minerals and antioxidants combat free radicals and help retain youthfulness of the skin.
• Proteins and biotin [found in liver, egg yolk, green vegetables, and whole grains] are required for healthy hair and nails.
• Water, vegetables and fruits like watermelon, walnuts, olive oil contain antioxidant. Fish like salmon and mackerel contain omega-3 fatty acid. All these moisturise the skin.
• Colourful berries like strawberries, blueberries and raspberries, and oranges and carrots [contain beta carotene] act as antioxidants and protect the skin from effect of the sun.
• Fish with omega-3 fatty acids and proteins like chicken and lean meat as well as flax seeds are known to prevent fine lines and wrinkles.

Avoid smoking as the smoke and tar deprives the skin of nutrients and oxygen and makes it dull and lifeless. They also form harmful free radicals that weaken the collagen and elastin fibres and this causes premature wrinkles.

As you age

To prevent skin tiredness, regular protection against the sun from an early age, combined with the use of moisturisers, is necessary. Basic skin care should include cleansing, avoiding the sun, using a sunscreen and a night moisturiser. Well-formulated anti-ageing products help to fight multiple signs of ageing. As you age, it is better to use heavy duty moisturisers, particularly at night to keep the skin well-hydrated.

Use anti-ageing creams containing alpha-hydroxy acids that are known to speed up cell renewal. Products containing alpha hydroxy acids make fine lines disappear. Creams containing retinol gently release pure vitamin A into the skin. It exfoliates the skin and encourages new cells to form while improving skin tone and texture. Using retinol regularly at bedtime, helps give a healthy youthful glow to your skin. Your skin looks firmer, smoother, and fine lines and wrinkles diminish. Retinol is non-irritant, and non-comedogenic [does not contain any ingredients proven to cause pore blockages], and hence safe to use.

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