The way to use

Soaps are used to remove sweat, excess sebum, body toxins and skin contaminants as well as applied cosmetics. These have to be cleansed to keep the skin healthy. A systematic protocol can be followed to achieve thorough cleansing from head to toe. Let me tell you how:
Soap should not be directly applied to the skin. It should be mixed with water and the lather produced should be applied on the body. Extra care has to be taken while cleaning areas where perspiration is more.
Parts of the body exposed to friction like elbows and knee need special care. Scrubs should be used, followed by good moisturising agents.
Soaps and cleansers shouldn’t be used frequently on the face as they can make the skin dry and irritable.

It’s your choice

Here, we take a look at the various kinds of soaps available in the markets today and what makes them different:
Bar soaps: Bar soap is the oldest and most common type of soap. It lasts longer and has many advantages, the primary being, its ease of use. It has a pH of 9 – 10.
Usually, coconut oil is used in these soaps, because of its ability to produce more lather and cleanse the skin. The maximum recommended proportion of coconut oil in a soap is about 30 per cent. If excess is added, oil from the skin gets lost, leaving it dry and flaky.
Syndet soaps: These are a type of bar soaps, which have a skin-friendly pH of 5.5 – 7. These are composed of synthetic detergents and fillers containing less than 10 per cent of soap.
Moisturising soaps: In moisturising soaps, paraffin, lanolin and glycerine are added to give it a moisturising effect. The most commonly used moisturising soap is glycerine soap. These soaps are non-irritant and do not remove the natural moisture of the skin. After cleansing, they leave a thin moisturising film on the skin, keeping it soft and supple.
Antibacterial soaps: These soaps have an added antibacterial agent like triclosan or trichlocarbon. The pH is in the range of 9 – 10 and these are available in liquid or solid bar forms. Liquid soaps are commonly used in toilets and washrooms as they are less messy.
Antibacterial soaps have gained special importance recently. They form the first line of defence against micro- organisms and harmful agents. However, excessive use of these soaps can cause dryness and irritation of the skin. Most of the deodorant soaps contain antibacterial agents.
Anti-acne soaps: People with oily skin need special soaps to remove the excess of oil and prevent clogging of skin pores. Many soaps with antibacterial, exfoliating and comedolytic [that inhibit formation of blemishes] properties are now available. These contain additives like sulphur, resorsinol, alpha hydroxy acid, salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide.
Anti-acne soaps are used mainly on the face, chest and back where acne is more prevalent. It may be necessary to use such soaps twice a day. However, overuse can cause red flaky patches on the skin.
Herbal soaps: These contain gentle herbs and plants like chamomile, lavender, peppermint, spearmint, oatmeal and avocado. These soaps are ideal for sensitive skin, though some people may still develop allergic reactions.
Chamomile has a calming effect on the skin without over-drying. Lavender has some of the same properties and even promotes sound sleep.
Olive oil and shea butter can also be used in these soaps. Olive oil, known for its skin-regeneration and radiance properties, contains vitamins and antioxidants that keep free radicals that damage your skin at bay. Olive oil also has an anti-ageing effect on your skin.
Shea butter, also known as sheanut butter, contains vitamins and acts as a good moisturiser.
Aromatherapy soaps: These soaps contain essential oils, jojoba and sunflower oil, extracts of chamomile, jasmine and ylang-ylang. They are said to promote a sense of wellbeing and relaxation.
Lipid-free cleansers: These are liquid cleansers that clean without water. They contain glycerine, cetyl and stearyl alcohol as additives. They are to be applied on dry or slightly moisturised skin and rubbed to produce lather and are then wiped away. They leave behind a thin moisturising film. These cleansers can be used by people with a dry and sensitive skin.
Abrasive soap: Abrasive soap gently removes the dead layers of the skin and makes the skin feel softer. They contain pumice, coarse oatmeal, maize meal, groundnut kernels and dried herbs as the main additives. These are mechanical exfoliants and help in removing the stratum corneum or the upper dead skin layer. Medium-sized sugar and salt granules mixed with soap lather can also be used as additives. These granules gradually melt, which avoids excessive damage. The abrasive soaps should be used selectively and less frequently as excessive use can harm the skin.
Shower gels: Shower gels are similar to liquid soaps, but in a gel-based preparation and are used for cleaning the body while showering. Most shower gels contain petroleum products and do not contain any saponified oil. Many people prefer using a shower gel because it is easier to handle than bar soaps and does not leave any messy soap scum residue in the shower. All shower gels are pH balanced.

Take-home message

With a variety of soaps available, it is difficult to choose the right soap that suits your skin. Here’s some help:

• If you have acne or oil-prone skin, use anti-acne soap that will remove excess oil or sebum from your skin. This reduces the occurrence of blemishes and breakouts. Soaps with tea tree oil can also be used.
• If you are involved in outdoor activities and perspire a lot, use an antibacterial soap.
• If you have a dry skin, use moisturising soaps. It helps maintain skin elasticity and keeps it hydrated and smooth.
• For sensitive skin, don’t use regular soaps. Use lipid-free cleansers or herbal soaps after checking them for skin-sensitivity.
• To get rid of wrinkles or delay the skin-ageing process, use soaps with antioxidants [like olive oils] and vitamins.

This was first published in the June 2010 issue of Complete Wellbeing.

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Why is exfoliation important?

Our skin is constantly forming and undergoing changes. Basal skin cells are the germinative cells of the epidermis and the basal cell layer is a rapidly dividing layer. Skin cells formed in this deep layer migrate outwards to the skin surface and get keratinised or cornified. These keratinised skin cells are essential because they give our skin its protective quality. But they are constantly sloughing off to make way for younger cells. As a person ages, especially after menopause in women, this process of skin recycling becomes irregular and the cell turnover slows down. Cells start to pile up unevenly on the skin’s surface making the skin uneven, dry, rough, and dull.

Our face is most sensitive to exfoliation. The shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean, and helps reduce acne breakouts. Exfoliation should always be done after cleansing the skin. Over-exfoliation causes drying and irritation of the skin and may further lead to wrinkle development.

Types of exfoliation

Exfoliation is achieved through either mechanical or chemical means.

Mechanical exfoliation

Mechanical exfoliation involves physically scrubbing with an abrasive. This can be achieved by using over-the-counter facial masks, scrubs or by microdermabrasion.

• Over- the- counter exfoliants include microfibre cloths, adhesive exfoliation sheets, micro-bead facial scrubs, crepe paper, crushed apricot kernel or almond shells, walnut scrubs, sugar or salt crystals and pumice. Other abrasive materials such as sponges, loofahs and brushes are also used. People with dry skin should avoid exfoliants, which include a significant portion of pumices, or crushed volcanic rock. Pumice is considered a good material only for the feet.
• Microdermabrasion is a commonly used, safe and effective mode of treatment used by dermatologists and in beauty spas for skin rejuvenation. It helps by superficially peeling the outer skin layer, thereby reducing its thickness, thus removing the dead skin cells giving a smoother fresher skin.

If done repeatedly, it improves hyperpigmentation and sun damaged skin and gives an even texture to the skin. Microdermabrasion can be repeated once in 10 days, depending on the skin type and sensitivity.

Microdermabrasion can be performed by two ways—crystal microdermabrasion and diamond microdermabrasion.

In crystal microdermabrasion, inert crystals of aluminium oxide are made to impinge directly on to the skin surface under vacuum.

In diamond microdermabrasion, a diamond-tipped head is rubbed against the skin, which abrades it, thereby causing exfoliation.

Chemical exfoliation

Cleopatra bathed in sour milk to beautify her skin, unknowingly using lactic acid, which is alpha hydroxy acid. French women of court scrapped old wine barrels and used old wine that is tartaric acid for the same.

Most commonly used alpha and beta hydroxy acids for exfoliation are glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, mandelic acids, tartaric acid and salicylic acid.

Glycolic acid is the most commonly used chemoexfoliant, which acts on the epidermis [superficial layer] and dermis [deeper layer]. On the epidermis, it has an effect on the keratinisation and removes the dead skin cells thus fading the uneven pigmentation. In the dermis, it acts by increasing the production of collagen and increases skin thickness. The skin thereby looks more youthful, rejuvenated and healthier. Chemical peels can be repeated every 15 days.

How much is too much

As facial skin is more sensitive, avoid over-exfoliation. Over-exfoliation of facial, sensitive and ageing skin makes the skin irritable and more susceptible to damage by ultraviolet light, thereby accelerating premature ageing.

Thus, it is important to understand the signs of over-exfoliation. The skin may appear taut and red and may cause flaking, dryness and itching. Increased sensitivity and burning may also be felt after using cleansing agents and cosmetics.

If you’re showing the signs of over-exfoliation, it is best to consult your dermatologist. After the skin recovers, use a gentle exfoliant designed for daily use.

Dos and don’ts

Dos

• The most important ‘do’ after exfoliation is to use sun protection and moisturisation without fail.

Don’ts

• Body scrubs are too rough for the facial skin; do not use them over the face. Use facial scrubs that are suited to your skin requirement and sensitivity.
• Avoid over-microdermabrasion. It can make thin, ageing skin even thinner, if you get treatments too soon.
• Don’t over exfoliate, especially in summer or in very sunny climates as it makes the skin more prone to sun damage.
• Don’t do repeated peels in a short span of time as it can excessively remove the protective keratinised skin layer. This exposes the living dermis making the skin more sensitive and prone to damage.
• Do not wax and peel the same skin area on the same day.

To conclude

Skin is a show case of your personality and having a good skin care routine skin is very important. Timely and regular exfoliation done with proper technique and expertise will go a long way in keeping your skin glowing and youthful. The duration and modality of exfoliation varies from individual to individual based on the skin type. It is necessary to remember that too much or too little care or treatment can defeat the purpose and would not be beneficial to your skin in the long run.

This was first published in the February 2010 issue of Complete Wellbeing.

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Both are painless but it is best to do away with them at the earliest. Removing warts is mandatory as they are a virus infection. However, getting rid of skin tags is purely for cosmetic purpose.

Get rid of it

Home remedies

While some warts resolve over time due to the person’s immune system, others may require extensive treatment.

Skin tags can be cut off with a sharp knife just above the area where the skin tag connects to the skin with expert consultation. Another remedy is to knot a piece of thread around the base of a skin tag, which cuts off blood circulation to the tissue and causes it to fall off within few days.However, it is best to consult a doctor and take treatment under professional guidance only.

Chemical cure

Using these chemical agents in the form of ointments can help relieve warts and skin tags:

• Keratolytic agents like salicylic acid, which dissolve the skin protein [keratin].
• Chemical cauterisation using trichloracetic acid [TCA], which has an instant coagulant action causing necrosis [premature death of cells and living tissue] of the skin.
• Cytotoxic agents like podophyllin and 5-FU for wart treatment.

Other options

• Laser treatment is usually done with a carbon dioxide [CO2] laser. They are expensive, require local anaesthesia and can cause scarring. Treatment may take1 – 4 sessions.
• Cryotherapy [freezing the wart with liquid nitrogen] creates a blister between the wart and epidermal layer, following which the wart and surrounding dead skin falls off by itself. This takes about 3 – 4 treatment sessions.
• Electrosurgery involves electric current to burn the wart or skin tag.

Keep it small

Moles [acquired melanocytic naevi] first appear in childhood and increase during adolescence or pregnancy. Most moles are brown-to-black pigmented lesions and can be flat or raised. Moles should be neglected unless they increase in size rapidly or show malignant transformation.

Treatment of moles is often initiated for cosmetic purposes. You can also try some home remedies such as applying honey, garlic, baking soda, juice of unripe walnut and grape fruit to the mole.

Surgical excision or electrocauterisation [process of destroying tissue using heat conduction] is recommended in case of large-sized moles and malignant transformation. Nowadays, treatments such as Ruby laser, Nd-YAG laser and carbon dioxide laser also are used for the same.

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