Let us first understand UV rays

Solar radiation comprises UV rays, visible light and infrared rays. UV rays that reach the earth’s surface comprise UVA [320 – 400 nm] and UVB [290 – 320 nm] rays. Visible rays are at about 400 – 800 nm and infrared rays are anything above 800 nm. Wavelengths less than 320 nm are absorbed by the upper layers of the skin, namely the stratum corneum and the epidermis. Wavelengths greater than 320 nm enter the deeper part of the skin, the dermis. All rays cause the breakdown of cell membrane, lipids, structural proteins and DNA of the skin.

Exposure to UVA rays can cause suntan, wrinkles, pigmentation, sun spots and even skin cancer. UVB rays are responsible for sunburns and skin cancer. Visible rays and infrared rays are said to increase pigmentation [any dark patches on the skin]. To protect the skin from all these rays, we need to use a sunscreen every single day.

What are the ingredients to look for in a sunscreen?

Always look for sunscreens which say ‘broad spectrum, non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic’. Broad spectrum means they offer protection from both UVA and UVB rays. Non-comedogenic means they are less likely to cause whiteheads. Hypoallergenic means they are less likely to produce allergic reactions or rashes. Physical ingredients are zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide. These ingredients form the main constituents of mineral sunscreens.

Safe chemical ingredients are cinnamates such as octinoxate, octyl methoxy cinnamate; ecamsule such a mexoryl, benzophenones, avobenzone; anthranilates such as methyl anthranilate; and salicylates such as octisalate homosalate. For best results, opt for a sunscreen which has both physical and chemical sunscreen ingredients. Some of the newer ones even protect from infrared rays. So if you are cooking most of the time or exposed to harsh indoor lights, use the sunscreens which protect from visible light and infrared rays as well as from UVA and UVB rays. For regular use, one should opt for a sunscreen with SPF 30 and PA +++

The most common questions asked about sunscreens:

1. “My grandma never used sunscreen, yet her skin is flawless,’”said Kriti when I asked her to apply sunscreen every day

Kriti, our grandparents were living in a better environment. The air was less polluted and the ozone layer wasn’t as depleted as it is now.

2. Sunscreens are so sticky, I cannot use them

Not any more. The market is flooded with new easy-to-use sunscreens that are not greasy. Ask your dermatologist or refer to the table at the end of this chapter.

3. Sunscreens make my face look white

The older sunscreens made the skin look chalky and white. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, essential physical ingredients in a sunscreen, were responsible for this. Haven’t you seen cricketers paint their faces white? This is zinc oxide, the best barrier from sun rays. However, one can’t wear a white mask and go out on a regular basis. But now, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are broken into micronized nanoparticles and incorporated into sunscreens. So you get the benefits without the white look.

4. I break out when I use sunscreen

You are not using the appropriate sunscreen. Choose a gel-based sunscreen or a matte one with ecamsule. Oil or cream-based sunscreens can clog your pores, causing blackheads and whiteheads. Look for sunscreens which say ‘non-comedogenic’, ‘gel’, ‘oil-free’, ‘dry touch’, ‘for acne-prone skin’ or ‘matte finish’.

Matte finish sunscreens contain silicones that ensure the pores are not clogged. They also reduce oil secretion and stickiness. They are best suited for people with oily skin.

Water-resistant sunscreens are occlusive and may clog pores. Avoid using them. Do not wear sunscreen for long hours if you tend to break out. If you work indoors and have no exposure to rays, you may wash your face an hour after reaching your office.

5. My skin turns dark when I use sunscreen

All you have to do is change your sunscreen. Avoid ingredients such as avobenzone and titanium dioxide in your sunscreen. Sometimes you may be allergic to these ingredients. Using these could result in darker skin.

6. I don’t step out into the sun; I just sit in my car and reach office. Why should I use a sunscreen?

UVA rays penetrate the glass in automobiles. Laminated glass used on windows offers some UV protection. However, rear side windows are made of non-laminated glass and transmit a significant amount of UVA rays. For adequate UV protection, all your car windows should have dark, protective UV shields which are available as laminated or tinted glass or film. However, as per traffic regulations, these tinted glasses are no longer allowed unless you have special permission. So the bottom line is that even if you travel by car, your skin still needs sunscreen. Similarly, if you are working in chic glass buildings which do not have curtains, you are being exposed to UVA rays.

My friend Karishma loves to sit by her French windows on Sunday mornings and sip her coffee. She is indoors, yet she gets exposed to UV rays. So she does need a sunscreen, even at home. My aunt thinks she has zero sun exposure as she is a homemaker and does not step out of the house during the day. So she doesn’t use a sunscreen. What she doesn’t realize is that she is exposed to sun rays while making her trip to the balcony to water her plants, to the terrace to dry wet clothes and to the bus stop to wait for her kid’s school bus. The short walk from our car to the office door or a walk to the café next door during a break is enough to do the damage.

7. Aditi is an actor and feels that her make-up has enough SPF

Foundation make-up provides SPF 3 to 4, because of its pigment content, for up to four hours after application. BB creams offer up to 40 per cent of the sun protection claimed by them. It is always better to wear a sunscreen first and then layer on make-up that has SPF. There are tinted sunscreens and sunscreens with primers available. These allow the make up to blend well without making the skin appear patchy.

8. Ashfaq says he doesn’t like to use a sunscreen because his face becomes sweaty on applying a sunscreen

Sunscreens which have more chemical ingredients change UV rays into heat. This causes sweat. To avoid this problem, opt for sunscreens with more physical ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

9. Marissa recently had a fabulous holiday in the Alps where it was snowing heavily. Yet, she came back tanned

Snow reflects 80 per cent of the sun’s rays; sand reflects 25 per cent and 80 per cent of the UVA rays that pass through clouds. So you must apply a sunscreen even on a cloudy day or when it is snowing. Remember to apply your sunscreen on all the exposed parts of your body. Physical protection helps a lot when outdoors. Full length trousers, long skirts, full-sleeved shirts and kurtis provide protection from UV rays. If you tend to tan or pigment easily, it is advised that you wear such clothes. Clothes made from tightly woven fabric offer better sun protection than loose ones. Also, darker-coloured clothes offer better sun protection than lighter ones. Wide-brimmed hats, umbrellas and scarves can also be used when outdoors.

10. Rishabh says he leaves for work before 10am when the sun is not very bright. So he doesn’t apply a sunscreen

Well, Rishabh, you are only partly correct. UVB rays are most intense between 10am and 4pm. However, as long as you see daylight, UVA rays are present with a fairly constant intensity. So there is no such ‘safe time’ unless it is before sunrise or after sunset.

11. How will I get my vitamin D if I don’t step out in the sun?

This is a common question. Most people get more than enough vitamin D through regular, incidental sun exposure. And even if you always wear sunscreen, some UVB rays will still penetrate your skin, stimulating vitamin D production. Furthermore, after a limited amount of sun exposure, vitamin D production reaches its maximum and stops. UV exposure beyond this actually breaks down vitamin D. The US FDA recommends a balanced diet and a daily 600 IU vitamin D3 supplement, along with 1g calcium to obtain adequate vitamin D. A diet rich in vitamin D includes fortified milk, cereals, mushrooms, eggs, liver, cod liver oil and fish such as salmon, tuna and mackerel.

12. Rimi’s seven-year-old plays soccer and she feels he has turned two shades darker

This is the effect of UV rays. Sunscreen can be applied on children above the age of six months. It is advisable to plan indoor activities between 11am to 3pm. Avoid sun exposure during these hours because rays are the harshest at this time. It also helps to be fully clothed. Caps and hats should be worn. Preferably, use a physical sunscreen with SPF 15. Make sure to use a sunscreen before and after a swim or an outdoor sport.

The post A Skin Doctor Tells You How to Choose the Right Sunscreen appeared first on Complete Wellbeing.

The best strategy against this is encouraging photoprotection [nature’s mechanism to minimise damage to the body when exposed to UV radiation]. Towards that, it’s important to know the correct usage of sunscreens. Before we discuss that, let’s quickly understand how the different radiations affect our skin.

Ultra-violet radiation

UV rays or ultra-violet radiation are harmful rays emitted by the sun. These rays are divided into different energy levels from shortest to longest wavelengths: UVA and UVB.

UVA

UVA rays penetrate deepest into the skin and are often referred to as the ‘ageing rays’. In high doses, these rays damage the underlying collagen causing darkening, pigmentation and acceleration of the ageing process. Skin affected by the UVA rays looks scaly, dry, wrinkled and leathery with dark patches.

UVB

UVB rays are primarily responsible for sunburns and are often referred to as the “burning” rays.

What are sunscreens and how do they help

Any substance or material that protects the skin from UV radiation can be termed as a sunscreen. Sunscreens work by absorbing, reflecting or scattering the sun’s rays on the skin. Since they play such an important role in your skincare, everyone—men, women and children—should use them throughout the year irrespective of the season.

Sunscreens must be used in conjunction with other safety steps for optimal sun protection. These measures include limiting outdoor activity during peak exposure time [11am to 3 pm] when the sun’s rays are the strongest and most harmful; wearing adequate clothing; sunglasses and a broad-brimmed hat. However, such protection isn’t enough at all times, so your best bet, and one that is quick and easy to protect your skin from the sun, is using sunscreen.

Selecting your sunscreen

Based on your personal liking, select from the range of sunscreen lotions, gels, ointments, wax sticks and sprays.

• While lotions and gels work best for oily skin, while cream applications are ideal for dry skin.
• Products with higher Sun Protection Factor [SPF] may contain higher sunscreen oils, accounting for the occlusive greasy feel [and breakouts in people with oily skin].
• Nowadays sunscreens come with a wide combination of elements—antioxidants, fairness ingredients or hydrating moisturising ingredients—incorporated in them. Choose one that is best for you. If you are unsure about the combination that is right for your skin type, consult a dermatologist.
• Spray formulations can be used on larger body parts—hands, legs, and back. They are good to use on kids, since kids don’t stay still enough for you to apply a lotion.
• Sunscreen wax sticks are usually for lips.
• In case you’re allergic to certain skin products, go for Para Amino Benzoic Acid-free, fragrance-free and hypoallergenic sunscreens.

How to apply a sunscreen

Using inadequate sunblock is the biggest mistake we make; most people use only 25 – 50 per cent of the recommended amount. This is how you need to use sunscreen for maximum benefits:

1. To ensure that you get the full SPF of a sunscreen, apply a good palm full or about two or three tablespoons per application to all your exposed parts [and not just your face]. Only then will you get adequate protection.
2. If you wear makeup, apply the sunscreen before applying it. In fact, you can even choose one of the numerous SPF foundations available. But if you’re prone to breaking out, choose a non-comedogenic sunscreen [something that
   does produce not aggravate acne] as it will not block the pores.
3. Apply sunscreen liberally and evenly about half an hour before you venture out. This allows the ingredients to fully bind to the skin. Pay particular attention to the back of your neck, ears, and the areas of the scalp with thin hair.
4. Perspiration, exercise, swimming and towel-drying removes sun creams from the skin, so reapply every few hours. Even water-resistant sunscreens should be reapplied every two or three hours after taking part in water-related activities.
5. Don’t reserve the use of sunscreen only for sunny days. Even on a rainy or cloudy day, up to 80 per cent of the sun’s damaging ultraviolet rays can pass through the clouds.

Getting the SPF right

SPF is a measure of a sunscreen’s ability to prevent UVB from damaging the skin. The SPF number indicates the amount of time a person can be exposed to sunlight without getting sunburned. For example, without a sunscreen a person would normally turn red after ten minutes of exposure to the sun.

A sunscreen with an SPF of 15 would allow the same person to multiply that initial burning time by 15, which means it would now take the person 15 times longer to burn, or 150 minutes.

Comprehensive cover

When buying sunscreen remember that not all products protect you from all kinds of sun rays. Hence, use broad spectrum sun protection to stave off photodamage.

Broad spectrum sunscreens have a combination of specific UVA and UVB agents and offer protection from both UVA and UVB rays.

Using sunscreen is not extraordinary; like a facial, it’s fundamental to skincare. If you follow this approach and apply sunscreen the right way, your skin will thank you today and in the years to come.

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