Come winter and my skin becomes a problem. From chapped lips to cracked heels to body itches, I get them all. If I forget to moisturise my legs in the morning, I am sure to be embarrassed in the clinic because of the white streaks on my legs. This is excessive dry skin, which I have inherited from my father, and the winters dehydrate it even more. People who suffer from skin allergies, eczemas and certain skin disorders like atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, seborrhoeic dermatitis, should be aware that their skin problems will worsen in  winter. So they need to take a little extra care and follow a stringent and effective skin care regime for their skin to stay moist and healthy.

Knowing your skin

First, let’s understand how your skin reacts to winter. The skin that is visible to your eyes is actually made up of many layers. The upper layers comprises of dead cells, which have lipids, oils, lactic acid, urea and hyaluronic acid in them. These form the skin’s natural moisturisers, giving it a natural ‘skin barrier’ that helps keep our skin hydrated and supple. Due to the low humidity in winter, the lipid structure in the barrier layer of the skin tends to break up. This means water can’t be retained in the skin and this gives you dry, flaky skin.

Your natural superhero: your skin barrier and how to take care of it

All of us have a skin barrier—a protective shield that protects and nourishes the skin. A healthy skin barrier has fat molecules—cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides—in the right ratio to keep the skin healthy. Our skin barrier also has an ideal acidic level, or what we call pH level, of about 5.4. This ideal pH level kills unwanted bacteria and yeast.

In winter, the cold disrupts the pH level, as does the low humidity. A broken-down skin barrier allows irritants, allergens and bacteria to find their way into your skin, causing allergies and breaking down of the skin. Foaming cleansers, bubble baths and bar soaps are some of the other common culprits that strip the lipids from the skin.

Very alkaline face soaps and ingredients such as AHAs [highly acidic] and retinoids [Vitamin A derivates] if used in the wrong concentrations, can aggravate the damage to the skin barrier. Too much exfoliating and washing is another common cause—even if you have oily skin with pimples, washing your face twice a day is more than enough.

Opt for cleansers [cream cleansers if your skin is extra dry] that have stearic acid [a common fatty acid]—this will improve your skin barrier. Facial cleansing oils, touted as the latest thing in skin care, are actually a centuries-old tradition in Asia. You can also repair your skin barrier from the inside by using supplements such as borage seed or evening primrose oil. You must consult your dermatologist to know the adequate dosage.

Get a supple winter glow!

Winter’s magic mantra is: moisturise, moisturise and moisturise! Moisturising in winters is a must to replenish the moisture your skin loses to the harsh weather. Body oils work wonders for the skin as they protect the skin’s barriers and lock in moisture preventing it from escaping the skin’s surface.

Add a few drops of coconut or almond oil to your bath. This is an excellent moisturiser and works on your skin by keeping it moist and soft throughout the day. Natural oils are a necessary ingredient for the skin in winter and they help keep your skin supple.

Winter Dos

• While the thought of a long, hot bath on a cold winter day is very appealing, over-exposure to hot water can dry your skin out even more. So you’re better off having a bath with lukewarm water.
• Avoid having a shower for more than 10 minutes.
• Be careful about the soap you bathe with, as soaps can alter the pH of the skin and make it alkaline. This will cause dryness and flaking of the skin. Deodorant bars as well as antibacterial soaps make the skin drier. If your skin is sensitive, avoid soaps with fragrances. I would opt for clear shower gels as they maintain the pH balance of the skin as well as cleanse the skin well. If your skin is dry, opt for a non-foaming, gentle moisturising shower gel.
• After a bath, apply a moisturising lotion on your entire body, while the skin is slightly moist. Use a heavy moisturising cream for your hands, elbows, knees and feet. It wouldn’t be wrong to quote that “Your moisturiser should be your daily companion.”
• Sunscreen isn’t just for summer time. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen to your face, neck and your hands [if they’re exposed].
• Moisturise your lips in order to form a protective barrier between the cold air and your lips. Use a lip balm for your lips. Ghee or clarified butter works beautifully too. Do not lick your lips as this dries them further. Avoid matte lipsticks and opt for a lip gloss instead.
• Avoid toners and astringents in winter, especially if they are alcohol-based. They will further dry your skin.
• Avoid having room heaters on for long hours. These will make the skin drier by ripping moisture away.
• If you are developing cracks on your heels, you need to take care of your feet on a daily basis, instead of depending on once-in-a-while pedicures.
• Drink up to eight glasses of water daily to keep hydrated. You can also make use of natural fluids from juicy fruits for delicious drinks.
• Include flax seeds, almonds, walnuts, salmon and mackerel in your diet. These are rich in Omega-3 fatty acids and will help to keep the skin hydrated.

Skin care remedies from your kitchen

Here are some delicious remedies to soothe and nourish your skin. Home-made masks are a simple way to nourish your skin.

• Make a paste with yoghurt, ground almonds and coconut milk. Apply the mixture on your face and keep it on for 20 minutes. Wash it off with lukewarm water.
• You can also blend an avocado with a few drops of coconut oil and apply the mixture all over your body before a bath. Leave it on for 10 minutes and then wash it off. Your skin will feel fresh and good as new!

Your skin is a living, breathing thing and like you, it also has many moods. Knowing your skin is important and so is observing and understanding how your skin behaves with the changing seasons. I hope you’re now better prepared to take care of your skin the right way this winter!

The post Cold play: A guide to skin care during winters appeared first on Complete Wellbeing.

We’ve put together a list of benefits that coffee offers. And for non-coffee drinkers thinking this does not apply to them, think again. Energy drinks, tea [even green tea] and most chocolates too contain caffeine.

1. Coffee can boost your workout sessions

Caffeine may trigger release of adrenaline, a hormone that prepares you for physical exertion. It keeps you alert and also helps in performance. Drinking a cup of black coffee an hour before your workout will help increase your endurance and make you perform better. This can also reduce the soreness you feel after a strenuous workout. Coffee also helps to break down body fat and make it available as fuel.

2. Drinking coffee could reduce feelings of depression

Depression is a serious mental health disorder; we’re in no way suggesting you can cure it with a few cups of coffee. But coffee does have active ingredients that stimulate the nervous system and boost production of neurotransmitters like serotonin, dopamine and noradrenaline. These play a huge role in elevating your mood and keeping you happy. In a study carried out by Harvard school of Public Health it was observed that coffee had reduced the risk of suicide by 50 per cent.

3. It helps you stay attentive

People who consume 200 milligrams of ground coffee or, for instance, the 8oz cup of coffee in Starbucks, have a higher recall level. It improves various aspects of brain functioning such as memory, mood, vigilance, energy levels and your general cognitive function.

4. It may boost your weight loss efforts

As mentioned earlier, caffeine helps to burn fat and that’s the reason why it is a major ingredient in fat burning supplements. Black coffee without sugar is really effective. Of course, drinking coffee must be combined with a healthy diet and exercise. If you’re adding milk, cream or sugar to your coffee with a donut on the side, your weight loss will remain a pipe dream.

5. Coffee may safeguard you from Alzheimer’s and Dementia

A regular habit of drinking up to four cups of coffee a day from the age of 40 years can help reduce the risk of Alzheimer’s or dementia. Continuous caffeine consumption can help reduce cognitive decline in older adults.

6. The benefits of coffee for skin

Cosmetic companies have woken up to the benefits of coffee because it makes your skin look flawless and reduce cellulite. It is one of the popular ingredients in skin care products. The antioxidants that are present in coffee can help eliminate wrinkles and fine lines. It is also used in scrubs and soaps and has several benefits such as diminishing dark circles, skin softening and skin brightening.

7. Caffeine can reduce the risk of developing cancer

This Cup-of-Joe can help reduce the risk of various oral and throat cancers. Adults who consume about four cups of coffee daily are less likely to fall prey to this treacherous disease. Decaf may have a weaker or slower effect.

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Why pollution is such a big deal

Exposure to pollution creates free radicals in the body, which eventually get linked to the healthy cells of our skin and hair causing damage. What’s more, pollution reduces the moisture content of our skin by depleting the protective barrier and makes the skin lose its suppleness and glow, hastening the appearance of wrinkles.

Dust can also oxidise inside your pores, clogging them and leading to pimples. There is also evidence that age spots appear early if you are being exposed to a lot of pesticides and toxins. Industrial level particulate matter can physically damage the skin, manifesting as redness and rash.

The increase in particulate pollution, chemical waste and pesticides has a direct and visible effect on our skin and hair

Increasing levels of air pollution also causes hair loss due to oxidative stress and free radical damage, apart from the loss of sheen. Researchers are increasingly identifying a condition known as ‘sensitive scalp syndrome’, due to increase in chemical as well as particulate pollution, causing oily scalp, dandruff, itching, pricking and pain in the roots of hair. It is common in folks who have migrated recently to an urban polluted city. Phew! So how do we save our skin and hair?

Eight commandments to pollution-proof your skin

Here are eight commandments that you must adhere to in order to keep your skin protected from the harmful effects of pollution.

1. Create a barrier to protect: Physical protection is the easiest and one of the most effective ways of saving your skin and hair from the wrath of pollution, and as a bonus, sun damage. Cover yourself up. Use scarves, gloves, hats or masks every time you go out and will be exposed to pollution. What can’t touch you, won’t harm you.
2. Use antioxidants to fight free radicals: They have to be our hero in the fight against free radicals. What free radicals leech from our skin, antioxidants replenish. Antioxidants can be consumed in the form of supplements and food. You can also apply an antioxidant rich serum at night after washing your face and, if you don’t mind the layering, also under your sunscreen when you step out. Increase your intake of green leafy vegetables, bight coloured foods like tomatoes, peppers, carrots and berries, nuts, and citrus fruits. Omega-3 fatty acids can be consumed in the form of food or pills, as they are anti-inflammatory too and also help in barrier repair.
3. Unload the grime: Cleanse your skin off those nasty dust particles and toxins. Choose a non-soap based cleanser which is not harsh on your skin. If you have oily skin use a salicylic acid based cleanser; if your skin is dry, stick to a creamy cleanser. Make it a habit to wash your face as soon as you get back home. While travelling, keep wet wipes handy to clean your face frequently. Twice a week, exfoliate your skin with a physical or chemical exfoliator. If your skin is sensitive, don’t use a granule based scrub as it may cause micro injuries to the skin. Instead consult your dermatologist for a glycolic or salicylic acid based product to be applied on your skin overnight at least once a week.
4. Hydrate, in and out: Keep yourself hydrated by drinking plenty of water. There is no fixed measure of how much is plenty as everyone’s needs vary, but try to keep your daily water intake to not less than two litres. Dehydrated skin is more prone to damage. Apply an antioxidant/retinol containing moisturiser at night.
5. Sunscreen: Sunscreen is a guard not only against sun but also against pollution. It creates a layer on your skin deflecting as well as trapping the nanoparticles of dust and toxins thus preventing them from reaching the skin and causing damage. Be very generous with the quantity of sunscreen you apply and remember to re-apply it every four hours to keep the protection intact. But it’s important to choose a non-greasy sunscreen—you don’t want more dust and grime sticking to your face.
6. Don’t forget to care for your eyes: Wear oversized sunglasses, even on a cloudy day. Dust and pollution, apart from the direct effect it has on the skin, might cause strain in your eyes causing early onset of crow’s feet.
7. Tame your mane: Avoid using harsh sodium lauryl based shampoo everyday, or very frequently. Use an EDTA based shampoo [swimmer’s shampoo] at least once weekly to chelate the harmful chemical toxins deposited on the scalp. Rinse the shampoo properly to avoid any residues. Use a leave-in conditioner or a serum post shampoo, as it creates a barrier around the shaft of your hair and keeps it safe from the effects of pollution.
8. Oil the damage away: Coconut oil is a great tool to protect the hair from damage. According to researchers, oil occupies the internal spaces in the hair and prevents entry of dust, dirt, pollutants and chemicals into the hair shaft, thus preventing hair damage.

A version of this article was first published in the December 2015 issue of Complete Wellbeing.

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Calendula beauty bar

Makes 8 bars

Ingredients

• 1 heaped cup calendula petals
• ¾ cup grated carrot
• ½ cup shredded coconut
• ½ cup almond meal
• 1 cup almonds
• ¼ cup goji berries
• ¼ cup sunflower seeds
• ¼ cup pumpkin seeds
• 2 tbsp chia seeds
• 1 tsp vanilla paste/essence
• ½ cup coconut butter
• ¼ cup rice malt syrup
• 1 tsp white miso
• 1 tbsp orange zest

Preparation method

1. Place the coconut butter and rice malt syrup in a jug, and rest it over a bath of hot water to soften or liquefy.
2. Roughly blitz the whole almonds in the food processor. Make sure that there are chunks of it.
3. Add all other dry ingredients, except the flower petals and goji berries, and pulse till combined.
4. Pour the coconut butter and rice malt syrup into the mixture and add the vanilla paste. Pulse again till combined.
5. Add the flower petals and goji berries at the end for one final quick pulse.
   Transfer the mixture to an 8 inch square cake tin, lined with baking paper; flatten the surface. Press slivered almonds and some orange zest over the top to decorate.
6. Freeze to set, cut into 8 large beauty bars to serve.

This was first published in the March 2015 issue of Complete Wellbeing.

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What is so special about argan oil?

Argan oil is unique because the Argania spinosa tree only grows in this region of Morocco. Many enthusiasts who knew of the benefits of argan oil have tried to grow the trees elsewhere in similar climates but have not been successful.

The process of harvesting the kernels and producing this precious oil is amazingly labour intensive. Local Berber women spend up to 10 hours at a time shelling, crushing, and roasting [for culinary grade oil] the kernels from the Argan tree. It requires the fruit of eight argan trees to produce merely a litre of argan oil. It’s no wonder then that argan oil demands such high prices in today’s market.

It has been linked to many health benefits when consumed with food as a dressing or condiment, although it should not be used for cooking because it degrades when exposed to high temperatures.

Argan oil comprises 80 per cent unsaturated fatty acids, oleic and linoleic fat. What’s more, it is extremely rich in vitamin E and has properties that lower LDL or bad cholesterol, stimulate circulation of the blood, aid digestion and strengthen the body’s immunity. Argan oil is also believed to regulate blood glucose levels and help prevent certain types of cancer [such as prostate cancer]. It relieves symptoms of arthritis and rheumatic diseases such as pain and inflammation and is a powerful antioxidant too, helping reduce free radical damage in the body.

The cosmetic advantage

Though the health benefits of argan oil are significant, it is most sought after for what it can do to your skin, hair and nails. Here is a list of some of its cosmetic benefits:

• Its hydrating qualities protect the elasticity and suppleness of the skin
• The oil is non-greasy and non-comedogenic and thus suitable for all skin types including oily and sensitive skin
• Its soothing and anti-bacterial properties help heal skin problems such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis
• It improves sebum production and balances the skin’s natural pH level
• It helps soften wrinkles and fine lines in the skin and reduces scarring and damage
• When used during and after pregnancy, regular argan oil massages may help reduce stretch marks
• Studies show that argan oil may help promote hair growth as well as improve the strength and thickness of hair
• It increases strength and flexibility of nails and cuticles
• May help prevent damage from sun exposure.

Where is argan oil available?

Argan oil products are available anywhere from a local farmer’s market or in department stores to high-end specialty retailers, spas and even online. Due to these differences, the price range is also quite wide [although most consider it to be very expensive at any price point]. You can get organic products containing argan oil available for less than `1000… and then there are tiny bottles of pure argan oil that cost well over `5000. All of the marketing hype and price discrepancies for seemingly similar products can be quite confusing for a shopper.

How do I know I’m buying the real thing?

Since argan oil is so expensive, you want to make sure you are buying the real thing. You have to be very careful, because some products that claim to contain 100 per cent argan oil actually contain certain levels of olive oil as well. There’s nothing wrong with olive oil, but it’s not argan oil.

While certain agencies have awarded organic certification to argan oil, there really is only one argan oil since the trees only grow in one area. As long as you know you are buying pure argan oil from a reputable source [like directly from one of the Berber women’s cooperatives or from a supplier who fully discloses the constituents of the oil], you can rest assured that it was grown organically and sustainably.

Many manufacturers only use the bare minimum amounts of argan oil to be able to list it as an ingredient in their packaging and advertising. This means that these products actually do not contain enough of the ingredient to produce its required benefits. Furthermore, many of the products contain chemicals that can affect the properties of the argan and render it ineffective. You must especially avoid products containing silicones, dyes, fragrances or alcohols.

A good rule of thumb is to look for the words “Argania spinosa” to be listed in the top five ingredients on the product. That way you know there is enough of it that it comprises a good amount of the product. I personally recommend only looking for 100 per cent pure argan oil with no other ingredients on the list. This is, of course, the most expensive—but it is very concentrated so only small amounts are needed at a time. It lasts.

This article was first published in the June 2013 issue of Complete Wellbeing.

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Tips for monsoon make-up

With monsoon showers, there are high chances that your make-up gets absolutely ruined or washed out. Dense makeup has a risk of being smudged and washed out severely and so it is better to use light and sheer make-up.

“First of all, wash the face with a mild soap and use cleansers to clean the face. After this rub an ice cube for about 10-15 minutes on the face for lowering the level of sweating. It also helps the make-up to stay for a longer period,” says Dr Apratim Goel, a Mumbai-based dermatologist.

Before wearing make-up, it is essential to put on a velvety base to cool and refresh your skin. Women with oily skin can use an astringent while women with dry to normal skin can use a toner after the ice to cool and refresh the skin. Also, use an oil control face wash before applying make-up to minimise oil production.

Foundation

“It is better to use an oil-free and water-resistant foundation during monsoon. Try and avoid using concealers in the rains”, says Nandini [Jadhav] D’Rozario, make-up and celebrity hair stylist, Muah Salon, Mumbai. Use the foundation as a concealer; apply it only on spots – like dark circles around the eyes and acne marks – that need touching up.

Powder

Use powder sparingly. Use it just to remove the grease off your face and nose. Avoid using pressed powders in monsoons since they tend to become patchy.

Mascara

Use a waterproof variety of mascara to avoid weeping black tears. “Forget the eyeliner and kajal during monsoons. Instead, use a kajal pencil – it lasts longer and does not smudge”, adds Nandini.

Eye-shadow

Since creams can melt off the face, stick to powder formulas. Pastels are a good choice. A thin film of light brown, beige, or pink cream eye shadow can be used with a coat or two of waterproof mascara.

Blush

Apply blush lightly—it’s best used when you can barely tell that you’re wearing it. “Cream blushers are a good option as they are water-friendly. If your face gets wet, all you do is dab it with a tissue and your blush stays put. Blushers give you the perfect natural look”, notes Nandini.

But, be sure to blend the blush outwards so that it does not look like a blob of colour on the cheek. Shades of peaches and browns are good colours to choose.

Eyebrows

Keep up with your tweezing/threading, but forget the eyebrow pencil this season. Instead, use a brow brush with a little hair gel to keep brows looking shapely.

Lips

“Matte lipsticks are the best option during monsoons. You can use lighter shades for the lip liners and shades of pink or soft brown, with minimum gloss, for lipsticks. Avoid creamy, glossy ones and opt for powder matte tones or creme matte tints”, Apratim suggests.

Concentrating just on make-up is not enough for the perfect look. Use water-based moisturisers during rainy season to avoid oily skin, acne, and water loss due to perspiration and sweating.

These tips should be handy to survive the monsoon in style.

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