Causes of dandruff

• Dry skin: Lack of moisture and sebum on the scalp can cause flaking
• Inflamed oily skin: Can cause sticky, itchy dandruff
• Irregular shampooing: Lack of regular cleaning could lead to pile-up of dead cells and flaking
• Fungal multiplication: Sometimes, the normal fungus in the scalp multiplies abnormally, leading to dandruff
• Haircare products: Irritation caused by haircare products like gels and hair dyes could lead to dandruff
• Diseases: Conditions such as psoriasis, seborrhoeic dermatitis and allergies may lead to scaling
• Climatic conditions: Cold and dry weather can lead to as well as exacerbate flaking.

Recognising dandruff

This sounds downright silly, does it not? Anyone can and does recognise dandruff. So, what is the big deal? The big deal is really in recognising when your dandruff needs attention. The top layer of the scalp—not unlike the skin—is composed of dead cells which need to be shed periodically for the new cell cycle to continue.

So, theoretically a little dandruff is normal, necessary even. But it should be totally free of itching and other symptoms. However, when you start scratching your head frequently or find dandruff falling on your shoulders, clothes and face, it signals a deeper issue and should be addressed urgently.

Normal scalp health

The health of our scalp is maintained by multiple factors such as our overall health, diet and the good bacteria we consume through our food. So, if any of these factors is altered, the organisms that usually reside in our scalp can also start multiplying, worsening the scaling on the surface. Increased secretion of sebum is the starting point, which then promotes continued proliferation of the organisms, leading to increased scaling.

This could, in many cases, be the precursor to other symptoms and conditions as well.

Tests to determine dandruff

Patients always ask me whether there are any tests available to determine dandruff. The answer is, no. This is because a good clinician will correlate the patient’s symptoms and the clinical appearance and arrive at a clear-cut reasoning on the causes of the dandruff and how to treat it. The only thing to keep in mind is that chronic dandruff can sometimes be a precursor to conditions like psoriasis. Thus, any dandruff not responding to regular care for over six months requires a visit to the dermatologist.

Diet and dandruff

Diet plays an important role in scalp and hair health. From the perspective of dandruff, it is important to eat a diet that consists of food items that are anti-inflammatory and are rich in antioxidants. Fruits and vegetables of different colours, and whole grains help in providing this balance. Inclusion of zinc, B vitamins and certain good fats is also vital. So, include fish, eggs and walnuts as well as flax seeds in your diet.

Treating dandruff

Treating dandruff needs a multi-pronged approach which I often refer to as the SCALP approach:

• Shampoo often: If you have an oily scalp, daily shampooing may help prevent dandruff.
• Cut back on styling products: Hair sprays, styling gels, mousses and hair waxes can cause build-up on your hair and scalp, making them oilier.
• Aim to eat healthy every day: Include as many things as possible from the above list to ensure good scalp health.
• Learn to manage stress: Stress affects your overall health and can trigger dandruff or worsen existing symptoms.
• Pick your shampoo judiciously: Knowing which anti-dandruff shampoo works best for you is the key to staying dandruff-free.

The good news is that over-the-counter [OTC] shampoos do work for commonly found dandruff. Here are some of the popular ingredients that work:

• Zinc pyrithione: Another anti-scaling and anti-fungal ingredient that slows down the growth of microorganisms that cause dandruff and similar conditions, such as scalp psoriasis. In addition, it improves the texture and shine of your hair, and controls any unpleasant odour that your scalp may emit.
• Selenium sulphide: One of the oldest anti-dandruff ingredients, it is quite effective in controlling scaling but could irritate the scalp. So, even though it is available OTC, I would recommend consulting your dermatologist first.

How to choose the right shampoo

The first thing each of us does when we have dandruff is to buy an anti-dandruff shampoo. So, look for one of the ingredients listed above. In case one shampoo does not work, look for another one with a different ingredient.

It is important to understand that dandruff is recurrent and that shampoos must therefore be used routinely and regularly.

It is also important to reach all areas of the scalp adequately and to leave the shampoo in for four to five minutes before rinsing thoroughly. If necessary, reapply and rinse again. Shampooing may be necessary every day when you first begin using your antidandruff shampoo, but you can eventually settle down to a once- or twice-a-week routine.

What the doctor does

The dermatologist will rule out all underlying causes—like a possible psoriasis, seborrhoei- dermatitis, etc.—in case of chronic dandruff. In the event that the dandruff seems sticky, the doctor will prescribe oral tablets—anti-fungal or antibiotic—to control the infection. In certain cases, topical steroids may also be prescribed, along with a steroid shampoo. Any other underlying conditions will be treated appropriately, according to the diagnosis.

Flake not, freak not!

Chronic dandruff is known to cause tremendous stress and social embarrassment, especially to younger individuals. However, knowing that it can be controlled easily can help alleviate a lot of this turmoil. It is important to spend time with your doctor to understand your condition fully and to recognise that the resolution of the condition is eminently easy.

Excerpted with permission from Let’s Talk Hair by Aparna Santhanam, published by Collins

This was first published in the November 2013 issue of Complete Wellbeing.

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It’s official! It pays to go green for the sake of your skin. Plants are packed with the goodness of high quality nutrients, which are beneficial for immunity and skin repair. Plant foods have long been known to promote health and wellness. Cultures where the diet primarily features plant-based foods such as fruits, vegetables, whole grains and legumes are found to have increased longevity and reduced rates of cancers and chronic diseases.

Traditionally, the goodness of plants has been attributed to the health-promoting effects of their array of vitamins, minerals and fibre. More recently, however, research studies are uncovering a new story. Plant foods contain thousands of other compounds in addition to macronutrients [complex carbohydrates, proteins, fats and fibre] and micronutrients [vitamins and minerals]. These additional compounds are collectively known as phytonutrients. Simply put, phytonutrients are active compounds in plants that provide proven benefits to humans when consumed.

Phytonutrients provide plants with protection from environmental challenges, such as damage from ultraviolet light, and when we consume plants rich in phytonutrients, they provide us with protection as well. These compounds have an ability to counter the attack of free radicals.

Phytonutrients, in minute quantities, have a number of benefits on the skin which include anti-aging and skin clarifying. They are like beauty shots which provide large benefits to the skin even in very small quantities. Ongoing research in this area has unearthed various classes of phytonutrients found in different plants. As we shall find out, this is one of the important reasons why one needs to eat different kinds of plant foods.

Classes of phytonutrients

Phytonutrients have been classified in different ways either based on their family groups, chemical structure or biological activity. I have found that the easiest is the one based on their primary ingredients. One unique quality of phytonutrients is that they can be identified by the colour they impart to various foods as we will see below. They are also loosely, therefore, known as plant pigments:
Flavonoids: These are the plant pigments derived from phenols that give plants their colour, like the deep of blue of blueberries, the purple of grapes, the orange of pumpkins or the red of tomatoes. Flavonoids include the anthocyanidins in blueberries and the quercetin found in onions.

Isoflavonoids and lignans: These nutrients contain plant hormones or phytoestrogens and are found in soy foods. Isoflavonoids are also found in nuts while lignans are found in flaxseed and rye.

Organic acids: The most important one, ferulic acid, is found in whole grains and is believed to delay skin aging in combination with Vitamin C.

Terpenoids: These include the basic terpenoids like limonene which is found in citrus food peels, as well as the carotenoids [Vitamin A precursors], coenzyme Q10, the phytosterols, and the tocopherols and tocotrienols like Vitamin E.

Organo-sulphurs: These are found in cruciferous plants like cabbages and sulphur compounds in garlic.

The most practical way of understanding and incorporating these phytonutrients or beauty shots in our diet is to look at the source of these nutrients. So let’s look at the different kinds of plant food and what sort of nutrients they provide us with.

Beauty shots in fruits

The purple-blue pigment that gives fruits such as blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, blackcurrants and red and purple grapes their unique colouration is called anthocyanidin. This pigment also protects plants from the damaging effects of oxidation. The antioxidant properties of anthocyanidins are now being studied by healthcare researchers who are determining that these pigments don’t just support the health of plants, but of humans as well.

The more we learn about beauty busters or free radicals, the more we realize how they make the skin age faster and lose its elasticity. We can understand, therefore, why antioxidants are gaining an important place in the nutrient table. Among the antioxidants, purple-blue pigments are found to have unique features. They protect cells and tissues from free radical damage in both water-soluble and fat-soluble environments. Further, their free radical scavenging capabilities are thought to be more effective than many of the currently well-known vitamin antioxidants, For instance, their antioxidant activity is almost 50 times that of either Vitamin C or Vitamin E, the vitamins most of us like to befriend!

These substances are also essential in the protection of collagen, the strength provider we spoke about earlier. They prevent the breakdown of collagen and thus protect the skin from aging, so they certainly qualify as genuine beauty foods. Incorporation of these fruits in our daily diet will ensure that we keep aging at bay, the natural way!

Beauty shots in vegetables

Our mothers and grandmothers were right—the foods we loved to hate as children are particularly healthy for us. Members of the Brassica family of vegetables, including broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, kale and bok choy appear to have significant beauty promoting properties. Studies have shown that people who consume these vegetables frequently have not only a lower risk of developing a variety of cancers, but also a sip of the elusive elixir of youth.

While these vegetables also contain significant vitamin and mineral profiles, the key to their unique health-promoting abilities may be the presence of phytochemical known as gluicosinolate. These have a profound effect on our liver enzymes and beneficially support the metabolism of oestrogen, the most important female hormone. This partially explains the effect that these vegetables have on the softness and texture of the skin as well as its clarity. Indirectly, hormones also maintain good vascularity of the skin, contributing to its glow factor.

Beauty shots in whole grains

Diets that feature significant amounts of whole grains have been proved to offer protection against the development of cardiovascular disease, certain types of cancer, and skin disintegrity. While whole grains provide an array of important constituents such as fibre, resistant starches, vitamins and minerals, it is important to appreciate the important health contribution of the phytochemicals that they contain.

The germ and bran of whole grains such as rice, barley and oats contain a concentrated amount of important phytochemicals that belong to the organic acid family. Included in this family of compounds are protective acids like ferulic acid. While whole grains are a significant source like fertile acid, certain fruits and vegetables like spinach, parsley, grapes and rhubarb are also known to contain this important compound.

Ferulic acid has been found to be a potent antioxidant that is able to scavenge free radicals as well as protect against damage to cells and tissues. In combination with Vitamin C, it is believed to have strong anti-aging properties and is extremely beneficial to skin health and glow.

Beauty shots in tea

Drinking tea is an important cultural feature in all the Asian nations and is slowly gaining popularity elsewhere in the world as well, due to its advantages. Tea is packed with beauty shots, the most important being catechins. In addition to being an important feature of green tea, catechins are also found in other plant-based foods such as apples, grapes, raspberries and avocados.

Among their many benefits, catechins are powerful antioxidants. They also support healthy gastrointestinal tract function, help in detoxification, and aid in the repair of damaged DNA and skin aging and can, in some cases, even reverse these processes.

Catechins are known to appear in the bloodstream, get circulated relatively quickly and at levels that provide benefits from drinking just a few cups of tea a day. They have the ability to repair UV damage and possibly even provide preventive care against sun exposure, though these studies are still under research.

The amazing thing about these beauty shots is that they work beautifully on their own and even better in combination. This sits well with most cuisines as vegetables are usually eaten in combination with grains, especially in dominantly vegetarian societies.

Today, we know that plant power is not only green but is bursting with colour. The colour in our diet has the ability to add colour and glow to our skin.

Excerpted with permission from
Skin Deep: An Inside Out Approach to Looking Good, Naturally!;
Published by: Harpercollins India
Price: INR199

This was first published in the May 2011 issue of Complete Wellbeing.

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One half of the micronutrients required by our body is made up of minerals. Minerals are needed for the stability and functioning of various vitamins like B complex and E. Some minerals are also good antioxidants and help maintain healthy skin by scavenging free radicals. Let’s take a quick look at some of the important minerals and how they affect our skin.

Copper

Copper is required for healing wounds. Since aging of the skin is a process in which damaged collagen is repeatedly repaired and therefore in some ways like a series of tiny wounds, copper is an important part of any anti-aging arsenal. It is abundantly found in various foods and deficiency is quite rare.

Dietary sources: nuts, cocoa, pulses, food cooked in copper vessels.

Calcium

Calcium is best known for its role in maintaining the strength of our teeth and bones. It along with Biotin, is important for the health of hair and nails.

Dietary sources: all dairy products like yoghurt, cheese, milk, etc.

Magnesium

Magnesium and calcium go hand in hand in their functions. It has a role to play in almost every system in the body. In the nervous system, it prevents degeneration and promotes strong brain functioning. Magnesium also helps maintain the skin’s defences by bolstering the action of B complex vitamins.

Dietary sources: green vegetables, cereals, especially whole grains, milk and other dairy products, nuts and pulses

Selenium

Selenium is a powerful antioxidant, especially when combined with Vitamin E. It is protective and preventive in a number of skin functions and disorders. We also know now that most people do not include enough of it in their diet.

Dietary sources: seafood, chicken, some nuts, brown rice, radishes and whole grains and wheat bread

Manganese

Manganese is important for the functioning of a very important antioxidant called Superoxide Dismutase which prevents internal and external aging of the skin.

Dietary sources: spinach, beans, spices like cardamom and turmeric and green tea

This is by no means an exhaustive list of all the vitamins and minerals required for optimal body functioning. It is, however, indicative of the essential micronutrients required for excellent health and functioning of the skin which will serve as a stepping stone to achieving that elusive glow on the skin.

Excerpted with permission from
Skin Deep: An Inside Out Approach to Looking Good, Naturally!;
Published by: Harpercollins India
Price: INR199

The post Minerals for skincare appeared first on Complete Wellbeing.

The former are designated by various alphabets, the latter by names, but the A to Z of it is that they are gems when it comes to bringing a glow to the skin. While it may be argued that vitamins and minerals could also be classified under antioxidants, they are important enough to merit a closer look in terms of the wonders they can do to the skin.

Vitamins are classically divided into those that are water soluble and those that are fat soluble. Water-soluble vitamins dissolve in water and are therefore thrown out of the body daily. They can’t be stored by the body, so it is important to obtain them from our daily diet. These are Vitamin B complex and Vitamin C.

Fat-soluble vitamins are Vitamins A, D, E and K and these can be stored by the liver. They need to be taken only from time to time as an overdose of some of these vitamins may have side effects. However, a food which contains these vitamins, unless consumed in disproportionately large quantities, rarely causes harm. But if you decide to take a supplement of a fat-soluble vitamin, make sure you do it only under medical supervision.

Water-soluble vitamins

B the Best

Vitamin B consists of a complex of vitamins. While each of these is important for optimum health, some are particularly beneficial for the skin.

Vitamin B1 or Thiamine helps keep the skin well-moisturized and supple. Deficiency of this vitamin can result in dermatitis, resulting out of dryness.

Dietary sources: brown rice, whole grains, eggs, potatoes and dairy.

Vitamin B2 or Riboflavin helps in maintaining the health of skin and mucous membranes. Along with thiamine, it provides a good defence mechanism against external assault.

Dietary sources: brown rice, whole grains, eggs, potatoes, dairy and pulses.

Vitamin B6 or Pyridoxine is necessary for the production of disease-fighting antibodies. Deficiency of this vitamin, though rare, is believed to contribute to repeated skin infections.

Dietary sources: green leafy vegetables, whole grains, eggs and dairy

Vitamin B7 or Biotin has been found to be particularly useful in maintaining healthy hair, nails and skin. Lack of biotin can lead to hairfall, brittle nails and dull skin.

Dietary sources: egg yolk, wheat, oats and nuts [walnuts, almonds]

Vitamin B9 [folic acid] and Vitamin B12 [methyl cobalamin] work in tandem to maintain various body functions optimally, especially those of the nervous system.

On the skin, they help to maintain the integrity of mucous membranes and prevent infections.

Dietary sources: Vitamin B9: spinach, beans, pulses B12: dairy products, eggs, fortified breakfast cereals

C The Difference

Vitamin C is the real star of this vitamin cascade. It is vital for many body processes, including the absorption of iron by the body, maintenance of the cell walls of all organs, and the general health of the skin, cartilages and the linings of all the tissues in the body. It has potent anti-infective properties and is therefore crucial to the immune system too.

Specifically, with respect to the skin, Vitamin C is also a good lightening and anti-aging agent. It has potent antioxidant properties, and gets rid of the free radicals easily, making it a star in the anti-ageing arsenal. It is water soluble and therefore, should be included in the diet as much as possible as it is regularly thrown out of the body through urine. Also, large quantities of Vitamin C may be required for maximal anti-aging activity. This is also the reason why topical Vitamin C is becoming popular as it is readily absorbed through the skin.

Dietary sources: fresh citrus fruits, potatoes, pomegranates, green leafy vegetables

Fat-soluble vitamins

Vitamins need to be supplemented in small quantities every day for optimum health of the skin and body. They can be incorporated into various recipes

A Winner

Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin and plays a vital role in maintaining the integrity of the skin, mucous membranes and epithelial linings. It is also required for the proper functioning of the visual system. Vitamin A, its derivatives and its forerunners [the compounds which actually help to form the vitamin], the carotenoids help in fighting infections like acne [pimples], epithelial disorders of skin and are excellent antioxidants. Because of its amazing skin properties, it can be called a ‘glow’ vitamin.

Vitamin A supplements must only be taken under strict medical supervision. Overdose can lead to hypervitaminosis A, characterized by excessive dryness of the skin, mouth and eyes. However, it can be supplemented beautifully in the diet as there are plenty of natural sources of this essential vitamin.

Dietary sources: orange and red fruits and vegetables, green vegetables, full fat dairy, sprouts

D Detox your skin

Vitamin D is a fat-soluble vitamin and a powerful antioxidant. It exists in several forms, of which calciferol is most active. Once the vitamin has been ingested, the liver and kidneys act on it to convert it into a form that the body can use. There are several benefits of Vitamin D for your skin and body. It is essential for the formation of healthy and strong teeth, bones and nails, normalizing immune system, preventing early aging of the skin and preventing osteoporosis or bone degeneration.

The best source of this vitamin is simple exposure to sunlight. Basically, the sun’s rays contain ultraviolet light that act on unprotected skin [when you aren’t wearing sunscreen] and allows the skin to manufacture Vitamin D.

Although this is a very easy way to get Vitamin D into your body and reap its benefits, sun exposure must be controlled. Too much sun exposure leads to skin pigmentation and premature skin aging. Five to ten minutes of daily summer sun exposure on unprotected skin early in the morning provides enough ultraviolet light exposure to produce the required amount of the vitamin for the body.

Dietary sources: dairy products, cod liver oil, egg yolk and fortified breakfast cereals

E Power

Vitamin E consists of a group of compounds called tocopherols, which are important in maintaining healthy skin and hair and their deficiency leads to dryness, brittle nails and frizzy hair. Since it is a fat soluble vitamin, it is stored in the body and should be supplemented only under medical supervision. There are a large number of dietary sources from where it can be obtained and these should be included in the diet regularly.

Dietary sources: eggs, soya products, nuts and seeds, green leafy vegetables, whole grains

Know your K

Vitamin K is the last of the fat-soluble vitamins. It is required for the normal coagulation of blood. It has the ability to lighten discolouration on the skin caused by haemoglobin. So it is used topically to reduce dark circles, bruises and certain pigmentation.

Vitamin K is abundantly available in nature and deficiency is very rare.

Dietary sources: It is found in green vegetables like lettuce and spinach, vegetables like broccoli and cabbage, in lentils, vegetable oils, butter and egg yolk to name just a few.
Topical Vitamin K creams are available in the market, which treat dark circles and prominent facial veins with moderate success.

Excerpted with permission from
Skin Deep: An Inside Out Approach to Looking Good, Naturally!;
Published by: Harpercollins India
Price: INR199

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