Eye Gear

It's never too late to learn the delicate shades of eye make-up for maximum appeal

Make upAs with any cosmetic, eye make-up must be used to enhance your charm, not overwhelm.

The key facts to bear in mind while applying eye make-up are: time of day; occasion; shape of eyes; and, your skin colour. According to Cory Walia, one of Bollywood’s leading styling experts, well-groomed, well-shaped eyebrows go a long way in highlighting the beauty of your eyes.

Mascara magic

Applying mascara correctly is the best way to give sparse lashes extra oomph. Start from the base of your lash line. Work your way out to the tip by applying mascara to both upper and lower lashes. Always hold the mascara wand parallel to your lashes.

For deep-set eyes

  • Start with eye cream – it is a good way to plump up skin around the eyes
  • Apply a layer of foundation to your eyelids – it helps even out their tone
  • Apply a light-coloured shadow over your entire lid, from lash line to brow bone. Light colours help your features stand out while dark colours make them recede
  • Dust a medium-toned shadow – medium-brown or grey – along the crease of your eye
  • Apply a brown charcoal pencil or powder liner very close to your lash lines. Avoid black – it makes eyes look too small
  • Sweep on a coat of black mascara.

For small eyes

  • Stick to light colours – they help brighten your eyes
  • Curled lashes are a great way to beat tiny eyes. After curling, apply a coat or two of black curling mascara to boost the uplifting effect
  • Pick a shimmery eye-shadow formula that reflects light
  • Avoid hard, drawn lines.

Choosing eye-shadow

Always choose colours that complement each other: light [for highlighting]; medium [for the lower half of your lid]; and, dark as liner. If you like eye-shadow cream, but find that it creases too easily, prime your eyelid with eye-shadow of a neutral colour; then apply the cream.

Banish under-eye circles

  1. Get 7-8 hours of sleep with your head elevated on a pillow
  2. Move the pooled blood from under your eyes with some daily aerobic activity
  3. If pigmentation is the culprit, opt for a lightening under-eye cream
  4. Use a cream specially formulated for the eye area and moisturise regularly
  5. If nothing helps, make friends with a concealer. Pick one with a creamy consistency and in a shade that’s a step lighter than your skin. Apply with a concealer brush, pat to blend, and top with powder for staying power.

Applying eye make-up

  • Apply a thin layer of foundation on the eyelids. Set lids with powder if you plan to use powder eye-shadow
  • Dust the entire eyelid with a wash of one colour. Cream eye-shadows are terrific for this look – light-to-medium tones work best. Add mascara as needed
  • Emphasise the crease line for depth – begin with the lightest colour first.
  • Dust a light tone over the entire eyelid with a medium eye-shadow brush.
  • Hold your brush very lightly and go from the lash line to slightly beyond the crease [where the eyelid meets the brow bone]. Glide up to the brow bone and the brush will automatically lift your face – just where you want the colour to end
  • Dust a medium shade in the crease line using a small-to-medium shadow brush. Extend slightly beyond the crease, up towards the brow bone.

Quick tips for beautiful eyes

  1. To identify colours that work best for you, use your hair as a guide, not your eyes
  2. Mocha, mauve, plum, maroon, beige, chocolate and brown complement dark hair while grey and soft purple are great for grey hair
  3. To give your eye make-up staying power, avoid eye cream on your eyelids in the morning. Cream makes your make-up run
  4. Never match your eye-shadow to your eye colour. Neutral colours that contrast with your eye colour work better. Choose muted colours in the same family and blend them well
  5. Use eye make-up remover from a reputed company to protect sensitive skin around your eyes
  6. For large eyes, experiment with deep, warm tones and keep mascara soft
  7. For small eyes, use shimmery tones to brighten eyes
  8. For wide-set eyes, begin the application at the inner corners of the eyes. Try to avoid going past the outer corners
  9. For narrow-set eyes, keep the application on the outer edges of the eyes, extending slightly beyond outer corners
  10. For protruding eyes, choose tones with warmth and depth to give your eyes a receding effect. Dust a medium tone over the entire eyelid and add a deep tone in the crease, or at the lash lines
  11. Choose between lip and eye make-up. If you dramatise one, underplay the other.
Uma Girish
Uma Girish is a grief guide, a certified life purpose coach and author. Her latest book is a transformational memoir Losing Amma, Finding Home: A Memoir About Love, Loss And Life’s Detours published by Hay House. She is the co-founder of the International Grief Council.


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